アイスクライミング | BETA Climbing Gym - Bouldering

[Dry Touring] #12 Dojo held on 5/14 (Tue.)

2024年04月17日

At the dojo, we will help you grow one step further.
The dojo owner will give each participant a problem and help them solve it.
The owner of the dojo is Junko Sensei, who is well known for her introduction to drytoolring.

From 20:00 to 22:00, you can come and go as you please. You can come at a time that is convenient for you, and of course you can leave early.

Participation is limited to experienced people.
If you are doing dry touring for the first time, please take “Introduction to dry tooling“.

Held on Tuesday, May 14！

Overview

[Place] Beta [3F]

[Hours] 20:00-22:00 (free entry and exit)

[Dojo owner] Junko Sasakawa
* Profile description at the bottom of the page

[Target] Those who have experienced dry touring
*Participation must be over 18 years old.

[Capacity] 8 people (Priority given to those who have participated less often, first-come-first-served basis if the number of participants is the same)

[Course fee] 4400 yen (tax included)
*Please pay at the reception on the day.

【Belongings】
・Clothes suitable for ice climbing (long sleeves and long pants are recommended. *Short sleeves are fine in summer and other hot seasons, but please be careful.)
・Ice ax (*1)
·Helmet
・Gloves (*2)
・Climbing shoes
*1 Please remove the hammer and adz. See “Preparing the Ax” for more information. please do.
*2 Gloves are essential to prevent injuries and protect your fingers. We recommend getting the perfect size. Leather golf gloves are easy to use, but you can also use thin gloves for work at home centers. It is difficult to climb with loose belay gloves or non-slip gloves.

Items that can be rented —————-
・Ice ax (free/please bring a taping with a width of 25mm or more)
·Helmet
・Climbing shoes (paid 330 yen/please bring socks/rent on 1F and bring to 3F)

[Course content]
Each session will have a theme.
If you want to step up your dry tooling skills, climb until you run out!

Participation

If you would like to participate, please apply at Beta store or email.
▼For e-mail: Please send an e-mail with the following address, subject, and text.
◆ E-mail address: info＠beta-climbing.com
*Please replace the @ (at mark) with half-width characters.
Email subject: Introduction to dry tooling 5/14 Participation request
Email text: Please write the following 1. to 5.
1. Your name
2. Gender
3. Date of birth
4. Phone number (Please write the number where you can be contacted on the day)
5. Whether or not to rent (If yes, please write the rental product name)
6. Beta member or non-member (please write which one)

※※※※※※※
For those who have applied, we will send you an e-mail from Beta Climbing Gym at a later date. If you do not receive a reply within 1-2 days after sending the participation application email, please call beta.
※※※※※※※

[Deadline] The deadline will be closed as soon as the application reaches the capacity.

[On the day] Please complete the reception (pay the gym usage fee + class fee) and change clothes at Beta [1F] about 30 minutes before the start of the class. Also, please complete the update as necessary.
* If you are not a beta member, you will need to register as a member, so Pre-registration is recommended.

Beta Climbing Gym Workshop / Dry Tooling Dojo / Junko Sasagawa

Beta Climbing Gym Seminar/Dry Tooling Dojo/Junko Sasagawa

Beta climbing gym workshops and dry tooling dojo

[Instructor Profile] Junko Sasagawa
Joined the Kanagawa Prefecture Workers’ Mountaineering Federation ・Ginreikai Deputy Representative
In 2018, an all-female alpine climbing club, Ginreikai< /a>. Besides alpine climbing, she also participates in ice climbing and dry touring competitions. She is energetically devoting herself to both mountain and competition.

Major achievements
[Competition]
2018 Montura Nanners Cup Her Beginner Division Winner
2019 Montura Dry Touring Championship Women’s 2nd Place
2020 UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup China match semi-final advance Women’s lead 18th
2020 UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup Korea Match Women’s Lead 28th
2020 UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup Annual Overall Ranking: Female Lead 30th
2021 BETA Cup Mixed Male and Female 6th Place
2023 UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup Annual Overall Ranking: Female Lead 21st

[Outer Rock]

Spring 2019 Kamakurayama Hayate D10 RP
Autumn 2020 Futakuchi Valley Kagura D9+ RP

Winter 2021 MIX route (unnamed) M8 RP

*Notice to everyone*
The [3F] climbing area cannot be used by the general public during the course. We apologize for the inconvenience, but thank you for your understanding.

dry tooling Dojo Past events

【Dry Tooling】 #59 Introductory Held on 5/1 (Wednesday)

2024年04月17日

In May, there will be a outdoor dry tooling trial session. If you would like to participate and are about to start dry touring, please join us here.
Dry tooling is a fun muscle training!

Dry tooling is climbing on rock or artificial walls using ice axes and crampons.
In Europe and the United States, it is enjoyed by many people as a genre of climbing.

There are many climbers who enjoy dry tooling as a competition and incorporate it as training for ice climbing and alpine climbing.
This course is for those who want to start dry tooling, those who have experienced dry tooling several times but want to learn from the basics properly.

I use an ax to climb, but don’t worry if you don’t have your own ax, I will rent it for you.
In addition, participants in this course may rent the Axe at no charge at any time in the future!

Even if you are new to Beta drywall, please take this course.
If you want to use Beta drywall, please take this course first
For details and to apply, please visit the official website

The number of times you can participate in the introductory class will be up to 3 times. After graduating from the introductory class, you can practice on your own, or if you want to practice with everyone, please use the “Dry Tooling Practice Meeting”.。

Held on Wednesday, May 1

Overview

【Place】 Beta [3F]

【Time】 19:30-22:30

【Lecturer】 Ms.Junko
※Profile description at the bottom of the page

【Target】 dry tooling inexperienced & beginners
※There is no limit on the number of times you can participate, but please note that if there are more applications than the capacity, we may ask those who have participated many times to refrain from doing so.
※Participation must be 18 years or older.

【Capacity】 8 people (Priority will be given to those who participate less often.first-come-first-served basis if the number of participants is the same)

【Course fee】 4400 yen (tax included)
※Please pay at the reception on the day.

【Belongings】
・Clothes suitable for ice climbing (long sleeves and long pants are recommended *Short sleeves are fine in hot weather such as summer, but please be careful)
・Ice ax (*1)
・Helmet
・Gloves (*2)
・Climbing shoes
※1 Please remove the hammer and adz. See “Preparing the Ax” for more information. please do.
※2　Gloves are essential for injury prevention and finger skin protection. We recommend that you get the perfect size. Leather golf gloves are easy to use, but you can also use thin gloves for work at home centers. It is difficult to climb with loose belay gloves or non-slip gloves.

Items that can be rented —————-
・Ice ax (free/please bring a taping with a width of 25mm or more)
・Helmet
・Climbing shoes (paid 300 yen/please bring socks/rent on 1F and bring to 3F)

【Course content】
・Differences between dry tooling and ice climbing (tools/moves)
・How to use the ax (how to grip, switch hands, hold)
・Dry tooling practice Traverse task using ice ax, basics of figure 4 and figure 9

About participation

If you would like to participate, please apply at Beta climbing gym or email.
▼In the case of e-mail: Please send an e-mail with the following address, subject, and text.
◆E-mail destination：info＠beta-climbing.com
※Please replace the @ (at mark) with half-width characters.
◆email subject：5/1 Hope to participate in dry touring introductory
◆Email text: Please write the following 1. to 5.
1. Your name
2. Gender
3. Date of birth
4. Phone number (Please write the number where you can be contacted on the day)
5. Whether or not to rent (If yes, please write the rental product name)
6. Beta member or non-member (please write which one)

【Deadline】Applications will be closed once the capacity is reached.

Beta Climbing Gym Seminar/Introduction to Dry Touring/Junko Sasagawa

【Instructor Profile】 Junko Sasakawa
Joined the Kanagawa Prefecture Workers’ Mountaineering Federation ・Ginreikai Deputy Representative
In 2018, an all-female alpine climbing club, Ginreikai. Besides alpine climbing, she also participates in ice climbing and dry touring competitions. She is energetically devoting herself to both mountain and competition.

Major achievements
【Competition】
2018 Montura Nanners Cup Beginner Division Winner
2019 Montura Dry Touring Championship Women’s 2nd Place
2020 UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup China match, semi-final advance Women’s lead 18th
2020 UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup Korea Match Women’s Lead 28th
2020 UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup Annual Overall Ranking: Women’s Lead 30th
2021 BETA Cup Mixed Male and Female 6th Place
2023 UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup Annual Overall Ranking: Women’s Lead 21th

【Outer Rock】

Spring 2019 Kamakurayama Hayate D10 RP
Autumn 2020 Futakuchi Valley Kagura D9+ RP

Winter 2021 MIX route (unnamed) M8 RP

*Notice to everyone*
The [3F] climbing area cannot be used by the general public during the course. We apologize for the inconvenience, but thank you for your understanding.

Introduction to dry tooling Past events

【Dry Tooling】＃28　Toprope Session held on 4/25（Thu)　Daytime 14:00～. Nighttime 19:30～　　

2024年04月15日

This month, the daytime and evening sessions will be held on different days!
There are still some assignments left to complete.
There will be a route change soon, so if you still have homework to do, please join us!

This is a session for dry touring experienced people.
Experienced doesn’t have to be good. If you have taken “Introduction to dry tooling“, you are an “experienced person”.

It’s also the only chance to vertically climb Beta’s face wall with an ice ax and a rope. Please feel free to enjoy!
(Usually, if you use the gym and climb the 3rd floor dry challenge, climbing using a rope is prohibited for safety reasons.)

The route was set by Mr. Hirokazu Kodaira, who is known as “Kazuo-san” in the dry touring community. They always put their ingenuity and prepare a fun route.

Not only dry touring enthusiasts, but also those who love ice climbing, please join us! “Perfect for off-season training and fun!”

If you are new to dry touring, please take “Introduction to dry tooling” first.

Held on Thursday April 25th

Overview

[Location] Beta [3F]

[Time]
4/25 (Thu)
Afternoon session 14:00-17:30
Evening session 19:30-22:30

*Contents are the same.

[Trainer] Kazuo-san
Dry Touring/Ice Climbing Enthusiast/Photographer

[Target] People with dry touring experience
*Participation must be over 18 years old.

[Capacity] 6 people for each division

[Course fee] 4400 yen (tax included)
*Gym usage fee included.
*Please pay at the reception on the day.

【Belongings】
Required: Clothing suitable for ice climbing (long sleeves and long pants that are easy to move in), ice ax, helmet, gloves (recommended for golf), climbing shoes, harness *Don’t forget! !

Rental: Ice ax, helmet, climbing shoes (paid 330 yen/please bring socks), and harnesses are available for rent.
*Please rent climbing shoes on the 1st floor before coming to the 3rd floor.

About participation

If you would like to participate, please apply at Beta store or email.
▼For e-mail: Please send an e-mail with the following address, subject, and text.
◆Email address: info@beta-climbing.com
*Please replace the @ (at mark) with half-width characters.
◆Email subject: 4/25 dry touring practice meeting request
*　Please write the desired session
◆E-mail text: Please write the following 1. to 5.
1.Name
2. Gender
3.Date of birth
4. Phone number (Please write the number where you can be contacted on the day)
5. Whether or not to rent (If yes, please write the rental product name)
6. Beta member or non-member (please write which one)

[Trainer profile] Hiroshi Furuhira (a.k.a. Kazuo)
Dry Touring/Ice Climbing Enthusiast/Photographer
A rugged yet beloved character. Please play around with it.

*Notice to everyone*
The [3F] climbing area cannot be used by the general public during the course. We apologize for the inconvenience, but thank you for your understanding.

Dry tooling practice session held in the past

【Dry Tooling】＃55　Beginner dry tooling session with professional ice climber Nae Yagi April 20 (Saturday)

2024年04月01日

A dry tooling session using ice axes was held on the mantle wall and lead wall of Beta Climbing Gym [3F]. The instructor is Nae Yagi, a professional ice climber.
In a session for dry touolng beginners, we will give advice according to each level, such as how to use an ax and move while climbing a specially prepared session problems.

It will be held twice a day, so please participate in the times that are convenient for you. Both sessions are 70 minutes.
The gym’s boulder wall is available before and after your session.

＜Part 1＞13:00～　＜Part 2＞16:00～

As a premise to climb the beta 3F dry problems, you will be asked to learn about safety management in the “Introduction to Dry Touolng” course, but those who participated in this session can climb the 3F dry problems without taking the course. can do.

Held on Saturday, April 20th

Overview

【Date and time】Saturday, April 20, 2024 13:00- / 16:00-

【Place】Beta Climbing Gym 3F / Akebono Boulder (Mantle Wall) / Shinjuku Face (lead Wall)

Session with professional ice climber Nae Yagi! !

Let’s learn how to use the ax and move unique to dry.

【Instructor】Nae Yagi (professional ice climber)

【Target/Capacity/Details/Participation fee】
Target: Beginners to dry tooling *Inexperienced people can also participate, but first, take “Introduction to dry tooling” I recommend that you

Capacity: 9 people in each section

Contents: Let’s learn together through the session!

Participation fee: 4,400 yen (tax included)
～Part 1 13:00～14:10 (70 minutes)～
～Part 2 16:00～17:10 (70 minutes)～

※Participation fee includes daily usage fee for beta.
※Please pay at the [1F] reception on the day.
※If you are not a beta member, please register as a member (free).　→Pre-registration is convenient for member registration (free)!！
※Participation must be 18 years or older.

【Belongings】Clothes suitable for dry tooling (easy-to-move clothes with long sleeves and long pants), ice axes, helmets, gloves (recommended for golf), climbing shoes, ice tools (optional).
There are rentals other than gloves.　Please come to the 3rd floor after picking it up on the 1st floor.
※Climbing shoes (please bring socks) / Helmets are charged (330 yen each)

【Insurance】Please join by yourself if necessary.

Participation

【Application for participation】If you would like to participate, please apply at the beta store or by email.

▼In the case of e-mail: Please send an e-mail with the following address, subject, and text.
◆Email address: info＠beta-climbing.com
※Please replace the @ (at mark) with half-width characters.
◆Email subject: Request to participate in dry tooling session on 4/20
◆Email text: Please write the following 1. to 5.
1. Your name
2. Gender
3. Date of birth
4. Phone number (Please write the number where you can be contacted on the day)
5. Session to participate or (Please write which one)
6. Rental availability　(If yes, product name: helmet/ice ax)
7. Beta member or non-member (please write which one)

【Deadline】Applications will be closed as soon as the capacity is reached.

【that day】Please complete reception and change clothes at Beta [1F] about 30 minutes before the session starts. Also, if necessary, please finish up on the [1F] [2F] climbing wall.
※If you are not a beta member, you will need to register as a member, so we recommend that you complete pre-registration in advance.

Detailed profile of Nae Yagi
prof_naeyagi02

Nae Yagi, born in Osaka in 1984, is a professional ice climber. She has been involved in mountain climbing and climbing since childhood.
In 2001, she won the 6th Kinki High School Climbing Tournament, and in 2002, it was only natural that she would win the championship again. ” appears bravely.

After graduating from high school, won the junior division of the JOC Junior Olympic Cup, which is organized by the Japanese Olympic Committee to foster future Olympians. He has won the championship (2004), finished 8th in the Asian Championship (2005), and has continued to achieve good results, including many cup competitions in various parts of Japan.

Seen as a climber who will carry the next generation of climbing on his back, he has gradually shifted his focus to ice climbing since the 2009 season. “When I was trying to make a living by competing and making a living, I chose a place where I could stand at the top,” he says. After graduating from university, I belonged to Maruhan Co., Ltd., which manages pachinko parlors. Active as Japan’s first corporate climber, chose the professional path from the 2013 season, and participated in all ice climbing World Cup competitions for the first time in Japan.

[War record]
2001: 6th Kinki High School Climbing Tournament 1st Place
2002: Asian Youth Championship Malaysia Tournament 3rd Place
2003: 6th Junior Olympic Junior Champion
2003: National Athletic Meet (adult women’s division) 2nd place
2005: Asian Championship Iran Tournament 8th
2008: Japan Championship 5th
2011: Ice Climbing World Cup Cheonsong 15th
2013: Ice Cllimbing World Tour Ranking 18th
2014: Ice Cllimbing World Tour Speed category 10th overall
2014: Participated in the Sochi Olympic Climbing Festa

Dry tooling session held in the past

Ice climbing Step UP training session by Kentaro Hirokawa was held at Yatsugatake 2024/3/16-17

2024年03月22日

2024/3/16-17 Ice climbing Step UP course was held at Yatsugatake/Kawara Oku/Soy Sauce Barrel.
We welcomed Mr. Kentaro Hirokawa, who knows everything about ice climbing, as our instructor. He is commonly known as Hiroken. He is currently writing a collection of alpine and ice climbing routes. It looks like it will be completed soon. looking forward to!
There were 2 participants. Although both of them have been climbing, it was almost their first time on ice. Beta Ozawa accompanied us for support.

Due to the warm winter, the ice in the Yatsugatake area began to melt in late February, and there was a concern that the event would not be held, but the cold returned in March and the ice had refrozen.
Initially, we had planned to hold the event at Minamisawa Otaki and Kotaki, but since it was likely to be the last ice cream event of the season, we expected it to be very crowded, so we decided to move it to the back of the river and at the soy sauce barrels.
The back of the riverbed is short and the route to the soy sauce barrel is limited, so I was worried whether I would be satisfied, but thanks to Mr. Hiroken, who knows everything about playing with ice, he provided a course on how to ensure safety in various situations. It was fulfilling.

Day1 February 16th
All participants left Tokyo by car at 4 o’clock. Arrived at Yatsugatake Sanso at 7 o’clock. The parking lot was about 90% full. I met up with Hiroken at 8 o’clock.
After receiving an explanation about the content and equipment of the course, we started at 9am.

It takes about 20 minutes to walk to the back of the river from Yatsugatake Sanso.
First, we set up two top ropes on the gently sloping ice and warmed up while learning the basics of how to climb.
Next, move to the next small icicle with a stacut. Descend by rappelling from the top of the icicle. I had fun while learning about safety on alpine routes.
After lunch, we learned how to hit an ice screw on a gentle slope and practiced it on the top rope.
Move to vertical ice and climb up. At this point it was about 3pm. As expected, it seems difficult compared to the gentle slope. It seems that each child is facing issues such as how to maintain balance and how to use crampons.
We climbed until after 5pm and the day ended.

Return to Yatsugatake Sanso where you are staying, take a bath, and start dinner. First, let’s toast with beer. Beer after playing to your heart’s content is special! Samgyetang served in a custom-made stone pot was delicious.

Day2 February 18th
We ate at 6 o’clock, relaxed a bit, and left at 8:00. For meals, you can choose between Western and Japanese food, and everyone eats Japanese food, The Japanese Meal, which comes with mackerel simmered in miso and natto. Calm down.
We arrived at the parking space around 9am, got ready and headed out. Head along the stream to the soy sauce barrel. There are a couple of high winding spots along the way, but they all pass along the stream.
There is ice on the top of the stream, but it’s very fragile, so we had to go upstream looking for safe footing. A rope is provided to ensure safety when passing through small waterfalls.
It took us 2 hours to approach, but it was a great learning experience for finding routes and ensuring safety when going up the Fuyusawa River.

Around 11:30, we tied up the top rope and started climbing. On this day, my goal was to create a pseudo-lead while driving ice screws.
I climbed several routes on the left, which are easier to climb, and climbed using a pseudo lead. Both of them made it safely.
Next, we set up a rope on the route on the right and reviewed all of the lessons we learned this time. Both of them were able to improve their skills, such as hitting the ax, balancing, kicking the crampons, and rhythm.
We climbed until around 4pm and finished. I arrived at the parking space after 5pm. I returned to Tokyo around 10pm.

Thank you to the two participants and our instructor Hiroken! !