Athlete Nail

Athlete Nail

Can you climb without worrying about your nails and fingertips?

If you answered No...

  • Pain in nails or fingers
  • Nails are about to crack and afraid of worsening
  • Split fingertips
  • Can't hold holds properly

Issues with nails and fingers negatively affect both your mental and physical performance...

Solving nail and finger issues could be the key to achieving your goals and completing your projects!!

The key to solving these problems lies in daily care!

Mentally

  • Pain in nails or fingers
  • Nails are about to crack and afraid of worsening
  • Split fingertips
  • Can't hold holds properly

⇒ Anxiety

When you have anxiety, you subconsciously hold back somewhere and can't perform at 100%. There are many body parts that can be maintained to eliminate such anxiety.

Fingertip care is one of them. Caring for your nails, the extremities, also leads to mental care, allowing you to fully demonstrate your abilities.

Physically

  • Pain in nails or fingers
  • Nails are about to crack and afraid of worsening
  • Split fingertips
  • Can't hold holds properly

⇒ Loss of Power

Bones don't extend to the fingertips. Nails compensate for this, serving as an important organ that protects the fingertips and controls force. Nail pressure is what maximizes fingertip function.

If your nails are in a healthy state, the work of finger muscles and tendons is less likely to escape, holding precision increases, and you'll be in a condition to demonstrate your abilities more easily.

⇒ A healthy body is essential

What is Nail Pressure?

Nail pressure (Souatsu) refers to how nails firmly receive the force applied from the finger pads. For example, you can throw a ball farther and faster. When running, the push-off force becomes greater, and body balance that supports and stabilizes the body also improves.

From both mental and physical (mechanical) perspectives, nail pressure is an important factor essential for sports.

Even if you hold using only your fingertips where there are no bones, if your nails are in a healthy state with appropriate hardness, nail pressure supports your fingers, increasing stability.

Athlete Nail Trainer® × Climber

◆ Trainer Mai Masuhara's Personal Experience ◆

~ A nail technician with 6 years of climbing experience discovers Athlete Nail® ~

[Before Learning About Athlete Nail]

Thought nails were in the way while climbing ⇒ Cut them as short as possible (extreme short nails)

*Reason: When I had to hold small holds, I thought it was better if my nails didn't hit the wall or rock, thinking they were in the way, so I kept them very short. With long nails, they would hit the wall, making the holds feel awkward, and I thought I couldn't hold when reaching for the next move.

[After Learning About Athlete Nail]

Learned that power was escaping ⇒ Trimmed nails to climbing-friendly length (= same length as finger outline)

*Reason: When gripping small holds, after trimming nails to a climbing-friendly length, compared to before, I felt more stability in holding and easier climbing, with less pain in my fingertips.

※ Athlete Nail Trainer® is certified by the Athlete Nail Association

How is it Different from Fashion Nails?

Athlete Nail is a nail maintenance technique that shapes nail length and form to prevent injuries and improve performance.

  • Professional athletes
  • People who exercise as a hobby
  • Those who want to prevent fingertip injuries from sports, etc...

It targets all athletes who do sports. Not limited to climbers, it also applies to those who do trail running, mountaineering, and other sports that stress the nails.

Consult with a Nail Trainer About Your Nail Concerns

If you have friends or family members who are nail technicians, please consult them first if you have any problems! If they have a solution, it might be easier to talk to someone close to you!

Athlete Nail Trainers specialize in knowledge about damage to nails and surrounding areas caused by athletic movements, and the techniques to maintain them. Please feel free to consult with an Athlete Nail Trainer!

Changes in Athletes Who Received Care and Consultation

Athlete Nail Change Example 1

S.A, V6/7, 5+ years climbing experience

Top photo: April 14 Bottom photo: June 16

◆ Had been concerned about very small nails since childhood due to nail-biting habit and nail bed shrinkage from extreme short nails

『Changes』

  • Nail bed became larger
  • Stopped biting nails
  • Nails became thicker
  • Gained confidence in the feel of holding holds
  • Fingertip recovery became faster after starting nail care
Athlete Nail Change Example 2

Climbing Instructor Yanai, V13, 8+ years climbing experience

Top photo: Before Bottom photo: After

◆ Climbs almost every day. Uses filing and moisturizing cream for fingertip care. Care couldn't keep up, climbing while enduring pain.

『Changes』

By improving fingertip condition, finger joints move better, and can hold without joint strain. Previously, hardened fingertips caused strain in holding, but removing hardness around joints enabled smoother holding.

Athlete Nail Change Example 3

R/T, V5/6, 1 year climbing experience

Top photo: Before Bottom photo: After

◆ From a grooming perspective, had been removing all white parts until extreme short nails. Soon after starting climbing, wanted more finger strength

『Changes』

  • Nail attached to bed and finger roundness recovered about 1mm
  • Gained confidence in the feel of holding holds
  • Could hold 6mm Beastmaker that couldn't hang before for 3 seconds. One pull-up on 8mm.
Athlete Nail Change Example 4

K/K, V7/8, 5+ years climbing experience

Photo: Result of growing nails for 6 months

◆ Serious extreme short nails. Cut nails very frequently even after starting climbing. Also had nail-biting habit, resulting in very small nail bed.

『Changes』

  • Nail attached to bed recovered from the faint line position indicated by arrow
  • Feels more stability when holding holds
  • Can hold 6mm Beastmaker. Pull-ups on 8mm became comfortable.

Comments from Athletes Who Received Care and Consultation

It's not something you feel results immediately, but like training, nail care became confidence in crimps, that's a fact!

When physical growth no longer directly translated to climbing ability, I learned this, and I clearly felt the effects. It was an eye-opener.

Nails rather than core!? I was skeptical, but thinking about it, it was a very reasonable approach. It might take time, but I'm glad I could review the fundamentals.

I was happy to learn self-care methods. I still can't help using nail clippers, but caring for extremities feels good, so I'm continuing.

After filing and occasional care for 3 months, my nails became harder and I stopped getting split nails. I always ask before climbing, so I can climb with nails in great condition, and I feel my hold quality has improved.

I have dry skin all over and am flaky. Perhaps due to chalk's effect on skin, my nails grow bumpy. They break easily, but thanks to reinforcement maintenance, I can climb with full force! I feel I've gone up half a grade!!

Menu & Pricing

MenuHANDFOOT
Filing
Shape and length adjustment
10 min¥1,00015 min¥1,500
Cuticle Care
Nail base and hangnail maintenance
20 min¥2,00020 min¥2,500
Reinforcement Coat
Reinforcement for soft/brittle nails
10 min¥1,00010 min¥1,000
Callus Care (around nails)
around nails
10 min¥1,00015 min¥1,500
Callus Care (palms, soles)
palms, soles
10 min¥1,00015 min¥1,500

Nail & Fingertip Consultation Sessions【Climber × Athlete Nail】

We hold free consultation sessions. If you have concerns about nails and fingertips, or want to learn care methods, please join us.
Consultations are free of charge.

Athlete Nail | BETA Climbing Gym