NEWS | BETA Climbing Gym - Bouldering - Shinjuku, Tokyo

2023/5/28 [outdoorcrag] Multi-pitch climbing practice meeting held at Yugawara Makuiwa and Goku Slab

2023年06月06日

2023/5/28 A multi-pitch climbing practice session was held at Yugawara Makiwa/Goku Slab.
It’s really nice to be able to hold it at the timing before the rainy season.

When the rainy season starts, you can’t have a practice meeting at Sotoiwa.
We will expose the problem outside now, practice indoors during the rainy season, and play outside when the rainy season ends! !
I thought it would be nice if such a flow could be done.

Goku Slab is a 4-pitch slab root. 20-30m per pitch. Climbing itself is not that difficult.
Climbing is not difficult, and the route has a certain length and number of pitches, so you can practice rope work.
And the reward for climbing is the superb view of Sagami Bay and the pleasant sea breeze unique to this season.

It seems that everyone had a fulfilling day, and it was a good day.

Climb, get stronger, get your shoes! June 2023 Monthly Challenge 1F/2F All 30 problems start!

2023年06月02日

June 2023 monthly challenge has started! 　There are 15 tasks on each floor, for a total of 30 tasks.

This month’s monthly is also interesting! “I’m sorry if I’m being rude, but it’s true.”

May was fun too…the number of challengers didn’t exceed 400. .
I think I lost a little confidence.
I want to reach 400 people in June and give shoes to 2 people!
Please try it!

This month, we have a variety of challenges such as balance, a little coordination, and retention.
The annual “I want everyone to fly” number 6! “Don’t let your guard down after flying!”
Climb, get stronger, get shoes!

⭐︎ For those who haven’t tried it yet, it’s different from tape assignments! “The grade is about level 5.”
⭐︎If you touch number 1 and feel that it is difficult, please touch up to number 4! “Number 4 may be easier than number 1.”
⭐︎ If you have only touched the 1st floor, please climb the 2nd floor and write it on the list! “Your chances of winning will be doubled.”

Please enjoy this month as well! !

■ Monthly Challenge Present
1st prize Climbing shoes of your choice (Choose from Scarpa/Unparallel/Sportiva/Mudrock/Black Diamond)
2nd Prize Original T-shirt
3rd class all-day ticket

Climbing shoes will be presented by lottery to those who climbed the monthly assignment and wrote their name on the check sheet. The number of completed climbs has nothing to do with the probability of winning. It’s OK to do just one assignment. Please challenge! “Simple assignments are about level 5.”
In the beta, we would like you to enjoy the weekly and monthly challenges and get stronger, and we would like you to feel that you have become stronger with the permanent regular challenges (tape challenges). Reference videos for tape assignments are uploaded to YouTube. I hope it will be helpful.
The reference video of the weekly assignment is uploaded to Instagram.

Weekly assignments often have a slightly different taste than regular assignments (tape assignments) and monthly assignments.
Please enjoy the weekly assignments as well!

2023/5/27 [Outdoor crag] Crack practice meeting held at Ogawayama

2023年06月02日

2023/5/27 Outdoor crack practice meeting was held at Ogawayama.

Since an event was being held at Mawarimedaira, the parking lot was full at around 9:30 and the aisles were full of cars.

As for the crag area… I think it was empty except for the rocks used for the event.
Initially, we headed for Aniiwa, but due to an event being held, we changed our destination to Thumbiwa.
1st party only. . No one came after that.

I thoroughly enjoyed “Ogawayama Layback”, which looks good and has good contents.
There are various ways to climb, such as jamming with a solid crack, or picking up the face with your feet. .
It’s fun with each one.

Did you climb about 3 per person?
Everyone was facing their own challenges, such as camset practice and pseudo leads.

After that, we moved to the last one and had a lot of fun with alpine-chic challenges.

It was a good day to enjoy crack to the fullest.

■ Issues climbed
Thumb Rock Ogawayama Layback 5.9 ☆☆☆☆
Last one main wall central couloir 5.7
Last one Okukabe only long 5.8

■ Future plans
6/10 (Sat) Mt. Washizu/super beginner lead practice
6/13 (Tue) Ogawayama
6/13 (Sat) Ogawayama/Crack
6/22 (Thursday) Saku Shiga
6/25 (Sun) Yugawara Makiwa/Goku Slab/Multi

【Climber × Athlete Nail】finger skin worries consultation meeting June 2 (Fri) /18(Sun)

2023年06月01日

finger skin worries consultation meeting/p>

2(Fri)/18(Sun) June
Ronilo Representative Athlete Nail Trainer Mai Masuhara will visit us.
We will be holding a monthly popular nail and finger skin consultation meeting this month as well. Consultation is free.
If you have any concerns or worries about your nails, please feel free to contact us. Especially in this cold and dry season, we see many people having troubles such as cracked skin on their fingers. Please contact us by all means.

Not only climbers, mountaineers and trells are also welcome.
Men! “Let’s learn about the culture of nail care!” Care for weakened nails, care for improving performance, and important for athletes. Of course it’s stylish too!
Please ask the staff on the day. (We will prepare a consultation reservation form. You can also make a reservation in advance.)
More about athlete nailsく

Are you climbing as hard as you can without thinking about your nails and fingertips?

For those who answered No…
・Pain in nails and fingers
・I’m afraid it will get worse because my nails are cracking.
・Ripped finger skin
・I can’t hold the hold well

If you have a problem with your nails or fingers, it will have a bad effect on both your mental and physical…

If you can solve problems with nails and fingers, it may be a hint for achieving goals and collecting tasks! !

The hint to solve the problem is in daily care!

mentally

・Pain in nails and fingers
・I’m afraid it will get worse because my nails are cracking.
・Ripped finger skin
・I can’t hold the hold well

⇒　anxiety
If there is an element of anxiety, I will save my movement somewhere and I will not be able to put out 100% of my power.
There are many body parts that can be maintained to prevent such anxiety.

Fingertip care is one of them.
Nail care, which is the terminal part, is also connected to mental care, allowing you to fully demonstrate your abilities.

⇒　Mental peace of mind is important　

physical

・Pain in nails and fingers
・I’m afraid it will get worse because my nails are cracking.
・Ripped finger skin
・I can’t hold the hold well

⇒　power escapes
Bones do not extend to fingertips. Nails, which compensate for this, are important organs that protect the fingertips and control the amount of force applied.
It is nail pressure that makes the most of the functions of the fingertips.
If the nails are in a healthy state, it will be difficult to miss the action of the muscles and tendons of the fingers, the accuracy of the holding will increase, and it will lead to a state where it is easier to demonstrate your ability.

⇒　A healthy body is important

What is nail pressure

Nail pressure means that the nail firmly receives the force applied from the pad of the finger. For example, you can throw the ball farther or faster. When running, the power of kicking out is increased, and the body balance that supports and stabilizes the body is also improved.

From a mental and physical (physical) point of view, nail pressure is an important factor that is indispensable for sports.
Even if you use only boneless fingertips to hold the finger, if the nail is in a healthy and moderately hard state, the nail pressure will support the finger, increasing the sense of stability.

athlete nail trainer®×climber

◆Trainer Mai Masuhara’s personal experience◆
～Athlete nails® arrived at by a manicurist with 6 years of climbing history～

［Before gaining knowledge of athlete nails］I think my nails are a hindrance while climbing ⇒ I had my nails as deep as possible
＊Reason: When I had to have a fine hold, it was better not to hit walls and rocks with my nails, and I used to use deep nails when it got in the way. If my nails were too long, it would hit the wall, and I felt that I could not hold the ball.

［After gaining knowledge of athlete nails］Know that the power was escaping ⇒ Adjust the length of the nail to a length that is easy to climb (= the same length as the outline of the finger)
＊Reason: When holding a small hold, if I adjusted the length of my nails so that it would be easier to climb, I could feel a sense of stability when I held it and it was easier to climb, and I felt less pain in my fingertips.

※Athlete Nail Trainer® is certified by the Athlete Nail Association

Is it different from fashionable nails?

Athlete Nail is a nail maintenance technique that adjusts the length and shape of nails to prevent injuries and improve performance.

・Professional athletes
・Those who exercise as a hobby
・Those who want to prevent injuries to their fingertips due to sports. . .

For all athletes who play sports such as.
Not only for climbers, but also for those who are engaged in sports that abuse their nails, such as trail running and mountain climbing.

Please consult a nail trainer if you have any problems with your nails.

If you have a friend or family member who is a manicurist, please consult them first if you have any problems!
If you have a solution, it may be easier to talk to someone near you!

Athlete nail trainers specialize in knowledge of damage to nails and around nails caused by athletes’ movements, and techniques to maintain them. Please feel free to contact the athlete nail trainer!

Menu/Price

	HAND		FOOT
filing 　　Adjusting the shape and length of nails	10 minutes	1000 yen	15 minutes	1500 yen
cuticle care 　　Maintenance of nail hairline, hangnail, etc.	20 minutes	2000 yen	20 minutes	2500 yen
reinforcement coat 　　Reinforcement of soft and split nails	10 minutes	1000 yen	10 minutes	1000 yen
Keratin care (around nails) 　　Adjust nail shape and length	10 minutes	1000 yen	15 minutes	1500 yen
Keratin care (palms, soles) 　　Adjust nail shape and length	10 minutes	1000 yen	15 minutes	1500 yen

[Indoor] Introduction to multi-pitch climbing 2-part system Part 1 [Belay station construction] Part 2 [Rappelling] 3F (reservation required) Scheduled for June 2023

2023年06月01日

Futagoyama/Central Ridge, Shiroyama/Battle Runner, Mt. Kentoku Hatate Rock/Central Ridge, Mt. Route: Mt. Mizugaki/Juichimeniwa back wall/Joyful Moment/Mt. Maehotaka/Kitaone/Mt. Kitahotaka/Eastern ridge/Mt. Tsurugi/Genjiro ridge/Mt. Concentric runze, large icicles on Mt. Arafune, Aizawa back wall, etc.

Multi-pitch climbing technology is often required for sports multi-climbing that you want to challenge, alpine multi-climbing that you want, multi-pitch ice climbing, climbing on these high-altitude walls, and climbing in mountainous areas. Even if you don’t need it, if you have mastered multi-tasking, you will be more likely to be able to safely deal with difficult situations to some extent.

Beta offers an introductory course where you can learn multi-pitch technology.
This workshop is for those who are new to multi-pitch climbing, those who want to review, and those who want to check their skills.
Since it will be held at the lead wall “Shinjuku Face” on the 3rd floor of Beta, you can take the course without worrying about the weather.
In this workshop, you can learn about the multi-pitch climbing system and safety management in the classroom, and actually experience two pitches indoors.
In multi-pitch climbing, there is a lot of knowledge to be learned and movements to be mastered, and it will be a dense time of 3 hours each time, 6 hours in total.

This introductory class does not immediately prepare you to climb multi-pitch routes on natural rocks. Before climbing a natural rocky place, it is necessary to understand safety management and practice so that a series of actions can be performed smoothly.
In the beta, students follow up on the following for the safe debut of Sotoiwa Multi.

1) Rope practice (every Monday from 19:00)
We hold rope practice sessions mainly for those who have taken the beta rope course (lead/multi).
Beta staff will be on hand to help you practice.
Participation by yourself is also fine. You can either practice with someone who has the same goal as you, or the staff will be your practice partner.
There is no participation fee. Only gym usage fee is OK.
Rope and gear rentals are free.

2) Free rope gear rental
Course participants can rent ropes and gear (ATC, harness, quickdraw) for free at any time.
Please come and practice when it is convenient for you.

3) Sotoiwa multi-pitch climbing practice session
We are holding a multi-pitch climbing practice session on the outside rock.
Under the safety management of the staff, participants will team up and climb. In fact, we climb with a crane by ourselves.
The climbing level is not so high, and the rope work is practiced.

4) Order rope course (every Friday)
We also offer classes on individual topics such as rappelling, fulcrum building and more.
As advanced techniques, we will also provide training on temporary fixing, climbing back, self-rescue, lifting system, etc.
Content and schedule can be arranged according to your request.

Also, it doesn’t matter how many times you take the “Introduction to Multi-Pitch Climbing” course.
Let’s wear a solid multi manners!

June dates

Part1/2 2（FRI） 10:00～
Part1/2 9（FRI） 10:00～
Part1　 9（FRI） 19:00～
Part1/2 11（SUN） 9:00～
Part1/2 14（WED） 10:00～
Part 2　16（FRI） 19:00～
Part1/2　28（WED） 10:00～

Overview

[Time] 3 hours each for the first and second parts, including a break of about 10 minutes

[Place] Beta [3F] Shinjuku Face

[Lecturer] Yasushi Ozawa (Beta Owner)

[Target] Multi-pitch climbing inexperienced and beginners, and lead climbing experienced
*If you have no lead climbing experience, please take the “Lead Climbing Beginner Course” in advance.
*Participation must be over 18 years old.

[Capacity] 4 people (reservation system, first-come-first-served basis)
Minimum number of participants　1 person

[Course fee]
5,500 yen each (tax included)

*Gym usage fee included
*Please pay at the reception on the day.

【Belongings】
Required: Climbing shoes, harness, belay device, helmet
Optional: 4 or more carabiners with safety rings, PAS (can be substituted with a sling), 1 120 cm sling, friction hitch cord, 3 quick draws
Rental: Harnesses, belay devices, and helmets are available for free rental. Rent climbing shoes (300 yen/bring your own socks) on the 1st floor and gather on the 3rd floor.

[Course content]
The first part [Construction of Belay station] and the second part [rappelling down] will be a two-time set course.

Part 1 [Construction of Belay station]: Mastering Tsurube system, construction of Belay station, second belay
・Explanation of multi-pitch system and procedures, demonstration by staff
　　Climbing with a crane, ensuring safety, calling, gear delivery
・Explain multi-pitch gears
　　Gear selection, carrying
・Concept of safety management
・Explanation on how to take the runner (intermediate fulcrum)
Type of fulcrum, natural protection, zero pin
・Construction of fulcrum
　　Description of fixed dispersion, flow dispersion (quad system), and self-belay, staff demonstration
・ Support point construction practice (fixed dispersion)
・Explanation about second belay, staff demonstration
・Second belay practice
————————————————————
Part 2 [Rappelling]: Practice 2 pitches with the rappelling/Tsurube system
・Review the mechanism and procedure of multi-pitch
・Explanation of rappelling, backup, friction hitch, rope management, staff demonstration
・Rappel practice
・Practice climbing a multi-pitch with a crane

[Videos for preparation and review]
Clove hitch for self-belaying on the main rope

Clove hitch when building a belay station with fixed dispersion

Registration

If you want to participate, please Beta store, call, email.
▼In store or by phone: Please tell us the following information.

1. Desired date of participation
2. Your name
3. Date of birth
4. Phone number (Please write the number where you can be contacted on the day)
5. Whether or not to rent (If yes, please describe the items you need)
6. Beta member or non-member (please write which one)
7. Participation schedule (example: 4/16 (Sunday) before and after, etc.)

▼For e-mail: Please send an e-mail with the following address, subject, and text.
◆ E-mail address: info＠beta-climbing.com
*Please replace the @ (at mark) with half-width characters.
◆Email subject: ○/○ ○ time-Introduction to multi-pitch climbing ○ Participation request
◆E-mail text: Please write 1. to 7. in the previous section.

[Deadline] The deadline will be closed as soon as the application reaches the capacity.

[On the day] Please complete the reception (please pay the course fee) and change clothes at Beta [1F] about 30 minutes before the start of the course. Also, please complete the update as necessary.
* If you are not a beta member, you will need to register as a member, so Pre-registration is recommended.

※※※※※※※
For those who have applied, we will send you an e-mail from Beta Climbing Gym at a later date. If you do not receive a reply within 1-2 days after sending the participation application email, please call beta.
※※※※※※※

*Notice to everyone*
The [3F] climbing area may not be open to the general public during the course. We apologize for the inconvenience, but thank you for your understanding.

Introduction to multi-pitch climbing Past events