3/26 The “Dry Tooling Spring Festival” was held with great success! !

ベータクライミングジム|春のドライツーリングフェスティバル

On March 26, 2023, the dry touring event “Dry Tooling Spring Festival” commonly known as “HARUDORA” was held at Beta.
This is a participatory event that is different from the competition-style events that were held in beta in the past.
Many people came to the event and the event was lively. Thank you to everyone who participated.


Even those who have been bouldering are interested in the dry touring experience event held by the side and participate.
I think it was a good opportunity for them to get to know and experience dry tooling.


It was a type of event that had never been held before, but the organizers were Haruko Takeuchi and Junko Sasakawa. It was an event that brought out the sensibility and energy of the women.
Instead of ranking, everyone is noisy, and both experienced people and beginners are harmonious. It was such a soft event.
In addition, Sumiko Kashiwa, the author of “The Girls’ Mountain”, visited us, and Masuhara, author of “Athlete Nail”. Mai-san opened a store. thank you very much.

Mr. Masato Nakajima, Hiroshi Furukawa , Naoto Kamon, thank you. Thanks to all the other people who directly and indirectly helped us, and the companies who kindly supported us, we were able to finish the event without incident. thank you.


From those who participated, is next a “summer drama”? Inquiries with.
I don’t know yet, but I think it would be nice if we could continue this kind of event in some way.

Sponsorship
Lost Arrow Inc. (Scarpa/Black Diamond)
Columbia Sportswear Japan Co., Ltd. (Mountain Hardwear)
Millet Mountain Group Japan Co., Ltd.
Caravan Inc. (comp/no grade/)
UP ATHLETE
TAT Inc. (Athlete Nail)
RONILO (All-in-one moisturizing gel ”AND”)


1F bustling with customers



Stamp rally using the entire surface of the 2F inclined wall



1F dry tooling experience meeting. Ms. Haruko Takeuchi carefully supports.


1F figure 4 photo session. Haruko demonstrating and Masato taking a picture.



2F Stamp rally chain problem.



3F Beginner course. Everyone is enthusiastic about Junko-sensei’s story.



3F stamp rally, rope problem.


1F Figure 4 experience. First experience the form on the ground.


1F Are you talking about nails? “Moisturizing?” “Serious girl talk.”



彼女たちの山

I would like to introduce the people who have been involved.
竹内春子
Haruko Takeuchi. “I want to do an event in Beta,” she said, and the project started. Shortly before the start of the Ice Climbing World Cup. During the tournament, I was planning an event with Junko Sasakawa. He was very active in the tournament and fascinated us fans, but behind the scenes he was thinking about this. . During the event, I was in charge of events mainly for first-timers, such as “Dry Touring Experience” and “Figure 4 Experience”. For those who don’t know, let me know. It will surely lead to my own growth… I think I enjoyed thinking about such things. After the event, from April Naoto Kamon, a climbing gym in Ueda City, Nagano Prefecture, “NEKO NEKO I support WALL as a staff member. I’m looking forward to what she will do in the future and what kind of success she will have.


笹川淳子
Junko Sasakawa. Haruko-san and I worked together to plan and operate the event. Seen from the side, Haruko-san fantasizes, and Junko-san makes it a reality. What was the reality like? During the event, while I was in charge of the “beginner course” and “step-up course”, I ran around the gym to make adjustments. The event has settled down, and Junko’s “Introduction to Dry Touring”, which had been canceled during the World Cup, has resumed. There must be many people who have opened the way to dry tooling by Mr. Junko. Beta is not limited to classes, but also supports dry tourers. I hope to work with you in the future.

中島正人
Masato Nakashima. I imagine that you participated in the project with Haruko and Junko during the World Cup. During the event, I was in charge of the workshop of “pick sharpening” and “clip tape winding”. It was a workshop that made use of the experience of activities that use a wide range of tools, from alpine mixed climbing to ice climbing competitions. In addition, they provided us with homemade roasted coffee and homemade scones, and we were able to get a glimpse of the high level of femininity. It seems that this year’s World Cup didn’t do as well as they could, but next year will surely bring us joy and excitement! ! “I’m looking forward to next year’s performance!” Also, most recently, we will be indebted to the Dora Two Sotoiwa Experience Event held in May and June. Thank you!

賀門尚人
Naoto Kamon. Photo right. Healing alpinist. When I look at his history of climbing difficult routes, I imagine him to be a strong alpine climber, but in fact he is a shy, finicky type who seems to be good for science, and is talkative in his specialized field. That’s right, Haruko is also that type? At the event, he gave us advice on setting the route for the “stamp rally” and how to plan the route on the day.
After the event, a climbing gym in Ueda City, Nagano Prefecture “NEKO NEKO WALL will serve as the store manager. It will be a new challenge for him, who cannot be said to be suitable for serving customers. I want you to do your best for the survival of the attached dry tooling wall “Tarako Wall”! I’m rooting for you even in the beta!
There are two articles about his climbing history: First ascent of Yonago Fudo “Ajitomoue”Tanigawadake Makuiwa C Face ‘Coelacanth’ 2nd Climb” is.
On the left of the photo is Mr. Bruno, an ENSA (professional training school “French National Ski Mountaineering School”) instructor. A person whom Kamon respects. You happened to be in Japan and visited us. They enjoyed the assignments, and they also screened the Cerro Torre climbing video.

古平和弘
Hiroshi Furukawa. Known as “Kazuo-san”. In Beta, I am in charge of overall dry task management on the 3rd floor and the “dry touring top rope session”. The only dry challenge in Beta where you can climb vertically using a rope. For the event, he set up the route for the “Stamp Rally” and gave us advice on the belay and route on the day. The main route is mantle return, dyno, chain at F4/F9, and many other routes. It looks interesting. After all, vertical climbing is fun! “Please continue to create interesting routes!” !

柏澄子
Sumiko Kashiwa. You came to the eve.The book “their mountainsGinreikai” to which Junko Sasakawa belongs. I was able to come by the relationship that was taken up. I’ve only read halfway through it, but it covers a wide range of “climbing people”, from alpinists to sports climbers and hikers, so I’m happy for omnivorous climbers who try various things. In addition, you can get a sense of Mr. Kashiwa’s personality from the deep human relationships he has with the people who appear. A must-read book.


増原麻衣
Mai Masuhara. The owner of “RONILO“, a hair and makeup, eyelash, and nail salon in Jingumae. In Beta, every month, we hold a “nail and finger skin consultation meeting“. During the event, we had a store open in front of the entrance and responded to customers. He used his natural affability and quick wits to smoothly attend to the visitors. It was really helpful.
In addition, all-in-one moisturizing gel “AND”, which is placed as a sample in beta, It is produced. Nail and finger skin care, daily moisturizing. Everything a climber needs. We will continue to push forward even in beta.


 


Spring Dry Tooling Festival held 3/26 (Sun)

ベータクライミングジム|春のドライツーリングフェスティバル

Outline

This is an event to let everyone know about dry tooling and enjoy it.
Haruko Takeuchi, known as Haruko of the World, and Junko Sasagawa, known as Ginreikai Mepanna, who played an active role in the Ice Climbing World Cup in the 2023 season, worked hard to make everyone enjoy themselves!

Whether you are new to Dora-Two or already enjoying Dora-Two, please enjoy!
No reservation required, free admission! “We would appreciate it if you could visit us first!”

  • Date March 26 (Sun) 9:00-18:00
  • Location: Beta Climbing Gym
  • Participation Fee Admission is free (participation fee will be charged for each program you participate in)
  • Eve March 25th (Sat) 20:00-

Content

Beginner program
■Dry Touring Experience
If you want to experience dry touring, go to this corner right after entering from the entrance of BETA. With full equipment rental and lectures, even first-timers can easily experience the dry world.
Our staff Haruko is looking forward to your participation.
You can experience both boulder style and top rope style.
Recommended for ice climbers! “Best for off-season training!”

  • Participation fee: 1100 yen each
  • Hours: 1F 9:00-17:00 2F 9:00-12:00/15:00-17:00
■ Figure 4 photo session
Click here for those who want to challenge figure 4, the star move of dry touring! With the support of the staff, you can take cool pictures. As with the experience, it will be held on the 1st floor.
*Please note that you may have to wait for the dry touring experience during the photo session.

  • Participation fee 550 yen
  • Hours: 1F 9:00-13:00/15:00-16:00
A program for beginners
■Beginner course
A course for beginners by Junko Sasakawa
This time, the main event is the “stamp rally”, and you can try the challenges on the 2nd and 3rd floors. Even in front of you, you might get tired because you don’t know the tricks of Dora Two and how to handle the gear! ? ?

In order to enjoy the stamp rally tasks even more, why not try the “Basics of Dora Two” first!?

Of course, those who do not participate in the stamp rally but would like to learn the basics of Dora Two are also welcome.

  • Participation fee 1100 yen
  • Hours: 10:00-11:00
  • What to bring: Ice ax, helmet, gloves, climbing shoes, harness *Rental available
■Workshop
Mr. Masato Nakajima, who was active in the 2023 season Ice Climbing World Cup, is in charge
“pick sharpening”
Don’t be afraid of bad holds and metals with a well-sharpened pick! Based on my extensive experience in competitions and rocky areas, I will tell you about the shape of a good pick and how to sharpen it.
“Grip tape winding”
Don’t underestimate it as just grip tape, just by changing the material and winding method, the ease of holding will be different, in other words, the endurance will increase! You may be able to climb that challenge that always falls down!?

Both are held on the 3.5th floor, and you can participate with one coin (500 yen), so don’t miss it.
In addition, on the day of the festival, you can drink coffee made with beans roasted by Mr. Nakajima himself for free (possibly with handmade sweets)!

  • Participation fee: 550 yen each
  • Holding time Pick shaving: 10:00-11:00 14:00-15:00
  • Grip tape winding 11:00-12:00
Experienced program
■ Step-up course 1.2
Junko Sasagawa’s lecture will be a step up.
Do you have a lot of troubles like Dora-Two, but your arms suddenly pump up, you can’t stand strong slopes, you get tired easily, you just can’t reach that hold, and so on?
I will give you one-point advice according to your level so that you can climb a little easier, reach more, and climb in a good position.

If you are worried about your own climb, come on! If you do the stamp rally task after taking this, you’ll discover something new Duck… Duck

  • Participation fee: 1100 yen each
  • Hours: 11:00-12:00 16:00-17:00
  • What to bring: ice ax, helmet, gloves, climbing shoes, harness *Rental available
■Undermove course
A course specializing in under moves by Haruko Takeuchi.
under. That is the No. 1 weak move for girls.
under. When it doesn’t reach, the solution tends to be “physical”. Even if you say, “If you raise your leg, you can reach it,” it tends to be difficult to get out if you raise it.
In order to solve your worries, we will tell you the “under improvement method” according to each person’s technique and physical strength.
If you take this course, you may be able to fly a little longer than yesterday!?

  • Participation fee 1100 yen
  • Hours: 13:00-14:00
  • What to bring: Ice ax, helmet, gloves, climbing shoes *Rental available
■Stamp Rally! “Dora Two Task Challenge!” “Main event!” !
An event to challenge the special challenges of dry touring set in the 2nd floor (bouldering) and 3rd floor (top rope) areas of Beta Climbing Gym. Stamp rally participants will win prizes by lottery. Stamp rally participants can also participate in the talk show by Masayuki Nara for free.

  • Participation fee 4400 yen
  • Hours: 9:00-18:00
  • What to bring: ice ax, helmet, gloves, climbing shoes, harness *Rental available
Program for all visitors
■ Charismatic Ice Climbing World Masayuki Nara Talk Show
A charismatic ice climber from Hokkaido has arrived at BETA!
Mr. Masayuki Nara, who continues to take on new challenges while dealing with an intractable disease, dilated cardiomyopathy, asks, “Why do you climb? What are you aiming for through the many adventures you have gone on?” He will talk about the route he has developed so far and what he is currently challenging.

profile
Born in 1972. I live in Hokkaido and my main occupation is a firefighter. In addition to ice and mixed climbing, he climbs 5.14a in free, enjoys river kayaking, skiing, and swimming. In 2014, he participated in the ice climbing demonstration at the Sochi Olympics as a representative of Japan, and has been active in the ice climbing World Cup for many years. In recent years, he has been actively developing climbing areas in Hokkaido, and in February 2019, he won the Grand Prize of Development by the Japan Development Climber Association together with Mitsugu Yoshida in the new field of deep water solo + jumping. In 2022, he developed dilated cardiomyopathy (a designated intractable disease in which the heart muscle thins, expands, and loses contractile force), and although his heart function drops to 54% of normal, he will make a comeback this winter with an indomitable spirit. Regardless of genre, many people are fascinated by the way he always takes on new challenges by mobilizing his own abilities.

  • Participation fee 1100 yen
  • Hours: 17:00-18:00

Organizer Introduction

Junko Sasakawa, aka “Ginreikai Mepanna”
Participated in the Ice Climbing World Cup from 2020. Despite failing to advance to the semi-finals of the World Cup against South Korea this season, they ranked 17th.

An all-rounder who can handle sports, alpine, trad, and ice. He likes and is good at thinking about “how can this person grow further?”

Such Junko is greedy for her own growth and does not mind steady practice, so she continues to steadily improve her personal best even in overseas competitions where strong members gather. I can speak English, French, and Korean, and I’m used to traveling, so it’s very reassuring when I’m on an expedition.

On the day of the Dora two festival, we will welcome you at the stamp rally corner on the 2nd floor, so if you have any questions, please ask.

⚛ Steady growth every year
Good at ice/rock parts and labor-saving moves

⚛ When I see someone in need, I can’t leave them alone

⚛Recent favorite is JUNON from BE:FIRST

ベータクライミングジム|春のドライツーリングフェスティバル・笹川淳子
ベータクライミングジム|春のドライツーリングフェスティバル・笹川淳子
ベータクライミングジム|春のドライツーリングフェスティバル・笹川淳子

Photo by @thatcrazydutchguy

Haruko Takeuchi, “SEKAI NO Haruko”
Participated in the Ice Climbing World Cup from 2019. This season, he qualified for all three World Cups and three European Championships, and made it to the finals in five of the six races.

Haruko is such a Tsuyotsuyo, but he’s usually very quiet, and that gap can be said to be a charm. I’m a geek, so if I ask him to explain my moves, he’ll do it endlessly (while grinning).

On the day of the Dora two festival, I think that I will be waiting for the people who come to experience Dora two mainly on the first floor while grinning. Nice to meet you on the day.

⚛ Japanese women’s strongest
⚛ Top level among the girls in the world


⚛ The move that puts out the distance is also perfect

ベータクライミングジム|春のドライツーリングフェスティバル・竹内春子

Photo by @thatcrazydutchguy

ベータクライミングジム|春のドライツーリングフェスティバル・竹内春子
ベータクライミングジム|春のドライツーリングフェスティバル・竹内春子

Sponsor company introduction

 Beta Climbing Gym|Spring Dora Touring Festival
(in no particular order)

Lost Arrow Co., Ltd.
Needless to say, a company that imports essential gear for climbing and mountaineering such as Scarpa, Black Diamond, and Metrius.
The company is run by climbers of climbers and the prices are reasonable. Isn’t there a lot of people who are indebted to you?
As for the beta, all the rental shoes were scarpa force. We have known each other ever since.
Columbia Sportswear Japan Co., Ltd.
A company that deals with famous brands including Colombia. There are many people who prepare a set of Colombian clothing when climbing Mt. Fuji.
Mountain hardware is familiar in the climbing area.
It was impressive that a super alpinist who was personally called Swiss Machine was sponsored.
Beta has sponsored dry touring events several times.
Caravan Inc.
At the same time as being a long-established domestic mountain climbing shoe manufacturer, we are also importing mountain climbing brand products. Climbers are familiar with Unparallel, No Grade, Rock Master, Kamp, and Totem.
We are selling Rock Master’s Rock Socks even in Beta.
Personally, I was shocked by Kamp’s nanotech crampons and ice ax, their lightness and strength.
Dear UP ATHLETE
I think there are a lot of people who are indebted to Jim Climber.
yes. This is a manufacturer of essential supplements for climbers. BCAA and EAA are on sale even in beta. Supplement before, during and after climbing!
TAT Inc.
Professional wholesale company for nail products. ? It may be a lot of people who think.
In Beta, we are indebted to Athlete Nail products. The most popular “nail reinforcement coat“, “nail oil” “Nail Essence” All are TAT products.
Dear RONILO
Jingumae hair and makeup, eyelash, and nail salon. me too? It may be a lot of people who think. .
This is the salon of Mai Masuhara, an athlete nail nail trainer who is indebted to the nail finger skin consultation meeting.
all-in-one moisturizing gel “AND”, which is placed as a sample in beta, is being sold. I will.