Lead climbing is the basis of all rope climbing. If you want to climb using ropes, you must first master lead climbing.
Once you have mastered the basics, such as the system of lead climbing and how belaying works, move on to the next step, such as multi-pitch climbing.
This seminar is a seminar to learn ropework and other basic techniques for lead climbing.
The feature of this course is that you can learn comprehensively and theoretically. You can also learn about the manners and rules for both outdoor and indoor climbing.
It is suitable for beginners to lead climbing and those who want to review. It will be held at the beta 3F lead wall “Shinjuku Face”, so you can take the course without being affected by the weather.
The course will be divided into two parts, with lectures and practice on lead climbing [Part 1] “Climbing Techniques” and [Part 2] “Belay Techniques”.
In the second part, belay techniques, we will respond to your requests regarding brake-assisted belay devices such as GriGri, in addition to tube-type belay devices such as ATC and Rebelso.
There are many things you need to know about both lead and belay, and there are many things you need to be able to do, so each part is 2.5 to 3 hours, for a total of about 5 to 6 hours. It will be a very dense time. You can also take only the first or second part.
It is not guaranteed that you will be able to practice lead climbing on a lead gym or outdoor rock immediately after taking this course.
It is necessary to practice clipping and belaying movements repeatedly so that they can be done smoothly, and to understand safety management such as risks on rocks, how to use gear correctly, and what to do if you fall.
Beta provides the following follow-up to ensure that participants have a safe debut in lead climbing.
1) Rope training session (every Monday from 7:00 p.m.)
Rope training sessions are held mainly for those who have taken Beta’s rope training course (lead/multi).
Beta staff will be on-site to help with practice.
It is okay to participate alone. You can practice with people with the same purpose, or a staff member will be your practice partner.
There is no particular participation fee. Just the gym fee is OK.
Rope and gear rental is free.
2) Rope gear rental is free
Rope and gear (ATC, harness, quickdraw) rental is free at any time for course participants. Please come and practice whenever it is convenient for you.
3) Outdoor Lead Climbing Beginners Practice Session
We hold lead climbing practice sessions on outdoor rocks.
The basic practice is top rope climbing, but upon request, we also practice lead climbing and belaying, taking into account skills, etc.
4) Order rope course (every Friday)
We also hold courses on individual topics such as belaying and building top rope anchors.
The content and schedule can be arranged according to your requests.
You can also take the “Lead Climbing Beginners Course” course as many times as you like.
Let’s learn the proper way to lead!
March dates
Part 1 (Sat) 9:00-
Part 14 (Fri) 10:30-
Part 16 (Sun) 9:00-
Overview
[Time] First part 3 hours, second part 2.5 hours, breaks will be taken as necessary
*Lesson time may vary depending on the number of participants
[Location] Beta [3F] Shinjuku Face
[Instructor] Yasushi Ozawa (Beta Owner)
[Target] Beginners and those with no experience in lead climbing
*Participants must be 18 years of age or older. (For parent-child participation, children must be elementary school age or older)
[Capacity] 6 people (reservation required, first come first served)
Minimum number of participants: 1 person
[Course fee]
5,500 yen each for the first and second sessions (tax included)
*Gym fee included
*Please pay at the reception on the day.
[What to bring]
Required: Climbing shoes, harness, belay device
Rental: Harness and belay device are available for free rental. Please rent climbing shoes (300 yen/bring your own socks) on the 1st floor and meet on the 3rd floor.
[Preparation/review video]
How to tie an eight knot
How to clip
How to send out and take in the rope when belaying at ATC
Climbing———-
-About types of climbing
-Free climbing/aid climbing
-Explanation of bouldering/rope climbing (lead/top rope)
-Harness wearing/figure-of-eight knot
-Clip practice
-About types of anchors and safety
-Demonstration of clipping in lead climbing
-Explanation of NG6 actions (reverse clip/Z clip/getting between rope and wall/hand drop/skipping clip/holding anchor)
-Safety management such as zero pin and pre-clip
-Lead climbing practice with pseudo-lead (staff belay)
*Practice of figure-of-eight knot will be kept to a minimum, so please prepare and review.
We have prepared videos for preparation and review, so please see the bottom of the page.
Belaying———-
・Explanation of the types of belay devices and the evolution of belaying methods (body belaying such as side tangles)
・Experience braking a belay device
・Practice putting in and taking out the rope with a belay device
・How to apply tension
・Top rope belaying demo Top rope belaying practice (staff climbing)
・Lead belaying demo Lead belaying practice (staff climbing)
Participation application
If you would like to participate, please apply at the Beta store, by phone, or by email.
▼Please tell us the following information in store, by phone, or by email.
1. Preferred date of participation
2. Name
3. Date of birth
4. Phone number (please write a number where you can be contacted on the day)
5.Do you have a barrel or not (if so, please state what you need)
6. Beta member or non-member (please indicate which)
7. Dates of participation (e.g. 4/8 (Sat) first and second part, etc.)
▼By email: Please send an email with the address, subject, and body of the email below.
◆Email address: info@beta-climbing.com
◆Email subject: ○/○, ○: ○ o’clock onwards, Lead climbing beginner course, ○th part, participation request
◆Email body: Please write 1. to 7. from the previous paragraph.
[Deadline] Applications will close as soon as the capacity is reached.
[On the day] Please check in (pay the course fee) and get changed at Beta [1F] about 30 minutes before the start of the course. Also, please warm up if necessary.
※If you are not a Beta member, you will need to register as a member, so we recommend that you pre-register in advance.
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Applicants will receive a confirmation email from Beta Climbing Gym at a later date. If you do not receive a reply within 1-2 days of sending your application email, please call Beta.
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※Notice※
During the seminar, the climbing area on the 3rd floor may not be available for public use. We apologize for any inconvenience caused.
We hold rope climbing practice sessions in outdoor fields. Lead climbing, multi-pitch climbing, crack climbing.
[Lead climbing practice session for beginners] We will climb with top rope or lead on rocks with easy routes.
This is recommended for those who are just starting out, those who want to step up from walking to variations on rocky ridges, and those who want to practice leading or mastering on easy routes.
All necessary gear (shoes, helmets, harnesses, chalk) can be rented (550 yen per item).
[Weekday Climbing Club] The destination and content will be decided in consultation with the participants. In general, the request of the first person to make a request will be given priority.
Location
Face (Lead/Top Rope): Kofu Makuiwa, Kabutoiwa, Yugawara Makuiwa, Tennoiwa, Kernel Rock, Shiroyama, Washizuyama, Futagoyama, Shibasaki Rock, Kawamata, etc.
Crack (Lead/Top Rope): Yugawara Makuiwa, Kabutoiwa, Kofu Makuiwa, Ogawayama, Jogasaki
Multi: Yugawara Makuiwa (Goku Slab), Shiroyama (Southwestern Kante, etc.), Futagoyama (Central Ridge, etc.), Ogawayama (Selection, Lemon Route, etc.), Ura Myogi (Kido Wall), Tachiokayama (Hidari Iwa Ridge), Mitsutoge (Central Ridge, etc.), etc.
Half ropes can be rented (1100 yen).
Rappelling/Climbing Back: Washizuyama, Hiwadayama, Mitsutoge, etc.
Participation fees vary depending on content and location.
[Crack Training] Protection set practice, climbing with top rope and lead.
This is a training session for crack beginners. This will take place at Makuiwa in Yugawara and Ogawayama.
[Multi-introduction] Learn ropework thoroughly on an easy route.
Participants will form parties and climb 4 pitches. There will be staff at the end of each pitch to help you learn how to set up anchors and belay.
We will also set up fixed ropes and provide an environment where you can climb safely as needed.
This will take place at Makuiwa in Yugawara and Goku Slab, but may change depending on conditions.
March dates
■Lead climbing practice session for beginners
March 20th (Thursday, national holiday) Numazu, Washizuyama
■Weekday climbing club
March 13th (Thursday) Face/Colonel Rock
March 18th (Tuesday) Face/Tennoiwa
March 26th (Wednesday) Requests accepted
■Crack climbing practice session
March 29th (Saturday) Yugawara Makuiwa
In Beta, we will let you climb until you are satisfied!
You will climb with a top rope prepared by the staff, belayed by the staff.
If there is a route you want to climb, we will set up the rope. If you feel like you have not climbed enough, we will belay until sunset.
In Beta, we will help you become an independent climber!
If you would like to lead or practice belaying, please contact us.
We will practice pseudo-leading, leading, or belaying according to your skill level.
In the case of multi, participants will pair up with other participants, and the staff will check the safety from nearby.
Recommended for these people.
・I enjoy mountain climbing and want to climb rocky ridges more safely.
・I want to step up and do variations and alpine climbing.
・I’m interested in outdoor climbing, but bouldering is a bit difficult.
⇒ “Lead Climbing for Beginners Practice Session” is recommended.
・I do bouldering and am also interested in rope climbing.
・I enjoy indoor lead climbing and would like to try leading on outdoor rocks.
・I would like to enjoy outdoor rock climbing regularly.
・I would like to practice leading and belaying on outdoor rocks.
・I would like to be able to go to outdoor rocks by myself.
⇒ “Lead Climbing Practice Session” is recommended.
・People who have weekdays off.
・I would like to climb on weekdays when the rocks are clear.
⇒ “Weekday Climbing Club” is recommended.
・I would like to try crack climbing!
・I would like to learn crack techniques for alpine multi-climbing.
⇒ “Crack Climbing Practice Session” is recommended.
・I would like to practice my system on outdoor rocks.
・I would like to make my debut on outdoor multi-climbing.
・It’s been a while since I last went to a multi-pitch, so I’m worried about whether I remember the system.
⇒ “Multi-pitch climbing practice session”
If you want to climb natural rocks with a rope, please join us.
We also want people who mainly do variations of mountain climbing to join us. Being able to climb not only increases the number of routes you can go on, but also leads to safety.
We accept requests for dates, so please let us know if you have any requests.
Before participating, please remember the basics about how to tie ropes and the lead climbing system.
If you don’t know, please participate in the ★Lead Climbing Beginners Seminar held on Beta 3F. *Not required.
For the multi-pitch practice session, participants will pair up and climb with a rope under the safety management of staff. In reality, there is no help from staff, and participants will climb on their own.
For details, please see the Multi-Pitch Workshop page.
Overview
[Location] Please see the location above. Detailed information about the location is listed below.
Past locations: Tennoiwa/Kernel Rock/Yugawara Makuiwa/Kofu Makuiwa/Washizuyama/Koga Shiyama/Ojinjoyama/Shibasaki Rock/Yukawa/Ogawayama/Kofu Kabutoiwa/
[Access, etc.] We plan to meet at the site around 8:00. We will break up around 17:00 local time. For rock faces accessible by public transportation, if there are people who want to continue climbing after the break up time, staff will belay until sunset.
If you are visiting a rock formation that cannot be accessed by public transport and you do not have a car or other means of access, you can ride in a staff member’s car (travel costs are around 4,000-8,000 yen). The price and meeting time vary depending on the rock formation, but generally we meet at the underground rotary at the west exit of Shinjuku Station between 5-6am.
*About transportation costs
If many people wish to ride in a staff member’s car (4 or more people), we will arrange a rental car.
In that case, the estimated cost is as follows.
In the case of Ogawayama
Rental car + fuel costs: about 20,000 yen, highway (Hatsudai⇔Sudama) about 8,000 yen
28,000 yen divided by the number of people.
6 people: 4,700 yen per person
5 people: 5,600 yen per person
4 people: 7,000 yen per person
[Target]
Lead climbing beginner practice: For beginners and those with no experience in climbing and bouldering. Shoes, helmets, and chalk can also be rented.
Lead climbing practice: For those with climbing and bouldering experience who are beginners and those with no experience in outdoor lead climbing.
Weekday climbing club: No climbing or bouldering experience required. Anyone who wants to climb on weekdays is welcome.
Crack climbing course: Experienced climbers and boulderers, but crack beginners and inexperienced climbers.
Introduction to multi-pitch climbing: Multi-beginners. Anyone who understands the system and can lead and follow on their own during practice.
*Beta membership registration is required. Please register in advance to participate.
*Participants must be 20 years of age or older.
[Contents]
Lead climbing for beginners practice: We will give a lecture on rock etiquette and etiquette, and we will climb routes from 5.7 to 5.10 on top rope. Depending on your skill level, we will also practice leading and belaying.
Lead climbing practice: We will climb routes up to 5.11 on basic top rope. Depending on your skill level, we will also practice leading and belaying.
Weekday climbing club: We will discuss with the participants and decide the destination and contents.
Crack climbing course: We will climb routes up to 5.10 with basic top rope. Depending on your skill level, we will also practice setting protection and leading.
Introduction to multi-pitch climbing: Under the safety management of staff, participants will climb 4 pitches together and descend by rappelling.
…> (not required)
*If you are participating in the multi-pitch climbing practice session, please make sure you are able to lead and follow on your own. If you don’t know how, please join the Introduction to Multi-Pitch Climbing class held monthly on the 3rd floor of Beta.
[Capacity]
Lead climbing beginner practice session: 10 people (minimum number of participants: 4 people, if participants can help staff belay, we will consider holding even with 1 person)
Lead climbing practice session: 10 people (minimum number of participants: 4 people, if participants can help staff belay, we will consider holding even with 1 person)
Weekday climbing club: 10 people (minimum number of participants, for lead, 1 person if participants can help staff belay. Multi is 2 people)
Crack climbing course: 10 people (minimum number of participants: 4 people)
Introduction to multi-pitch climbing: 4 people (minimum number of participants: 2 people, if you practice with staff, we will hold even with 1 person)
[Participation Fee]
Lead climbing beginners practice: 8,800 yen
Lead climbing practice: 7,700 yen
Weekday climbing club: Face, multi, rappelling, backclimb 7,700 yen, multi 14,300 yen
Crack climbing course: 7,700 yen
Introduction to multi-pitch climbing: 14,300 yen
Rental 550 yen to 1,100 yen per item
Cancellations are accepted at any time, but cancellations on the day before or on the day of the event will incur a cancellation fee (100% of the course fee).
Payment for the participation fee can be made at Beta (cash, credit card, PayPay, d-payment, merpay, auPay, transportation electronic money, ID, QUICpay) or in cash on the day.
*If the event is canceled due to rain, the participation fee will be refunded.
*If the event is cancelled on-site, a half-price refund will be given.
*If the event is cancelled or the purpose of the event is changed on-site, no refund will be given.
*If you are not a beta member, you will need to register as a member. Please come to the store and register as a member or pre-register by the day of the event. If you have pre-registered, please email us your pre-registration number.
If you have any requests other than the dates listed below, please let us know.
[Insurance]Please purchase it yourself.
We recommend Mitsui Sumitomo Insurance’s GK Personal Life Insurance.
Seven A Co., Ltd., which imports climbing equipment and runs gyms, is the agency for this insurance, and they provide an easy-to-understand explanation of the plans that cover climbing. Please see the PDF pamphlet.
*Harnesses and helmets are available for rental (550 yen each) for a fee.
[Clothing] Clothing suitable for climbing (top and bottom)
*The rocks can get quite cold in winter, spring, and autumn. Be sure to bring warm clothes such as fleece and down jacket.
[Toilets] There are some rocky areas that do not have toilets or water sources.
Please bring toilet paper and plastic bags to collect used paper.
[Cancellation] We may cancel the event due to weather or other circumstances.
Regardless of whether the event will be held or canceled, we will contact you by email or phone by around 7pm the day before.
When applying, please be sure to enter a phone number or email address where you can be contacted the day before and on the day. In the event of cancellation, the participation fee will be fully refunded.
Preparation and review video
How to tie an eight knot
Clove hitch for self-belaying with the main rope
Clove hitch for building fixed distributed belay stations
Apply to participate
If you would like to participate, please visit the Beta store, or call, email,
There is only one event left in the Ice Climbing World Cup.
Junko-sensei competed despite a shoulder injury, but she did well and made it to the semi-finals in the USA match.
You might even get to hear some behind-the-scenes stories from the World Cup.
At the dojo, we will help you grow one step further.
The dojo owner will give each participant a problem and help them solve it.
The owner of the dojo is Junko Sensei, who is well known for her introduction to drytoolring.
From 20:00 to 22:00, you can come and go as you please. You can come at a time that is convenient for you, and of course you can leave early.
Participation is limited to experienced people.
If you are doing dry touring for the first time, please take “Introduction to dry tooling“.
Held on Tuesday, 11th March！
Overview
[Place] Beta [3F]
[Hours] 20:00-22:00 (free entry and exit)
[Dojo owner] Junko Sasakawa
* Profile description at the bottom of the page
[Target] Those who have experienced dry touring
*Participation must be over 18 years old.
[Capacity] 8 people (Priority given to those who have participated less often, first-come-first-served basis if the number of participants is the same)
[Course fee] 4400 yen (tax included)
*Please pay at the reception on the day.
【Belongings】
・Clothes suitable for ice climbing (long sleeves and long pants are recommended. *Short sleeves are fine in summer and other hot seasons, but please be careful.)
・Ice ax (*1)
·Helmet
・Gloves (*2)
・Climbing shoes
*1 Please remove the hammer and adz. See “Preparing the Ax” for more information. please do.
*2 Gloves are essential to prevent injuries and protect your fingers. We recommend getting the perfect size. Leather golf gloves are easy to use, but you can also use thin gloves for work at home centers. It is difficult to climb with loose belay gloves or non-slip gloves.
Items that can be rented —————-
・Ice ax (free/please bring a taping with a width of 25mm or more)
·Helmet
・Climbing shoes (paid 330 yen/please bring socks/rent on 1F and bring to 3F)
[Course content]
Each session will have a theme.
If you want to step up your dry tooling skills, climb until you run out!
Participation
If you would like to participate, please apply at Beta store or email.
▼For e-mail: Please send an e-mail with the following address, subject, and text.
◆ E-mail address: info@beta-climbing.com
Email subject: 3/11 dry tooling Dojo request
Email text: Please write the following 1. to 5.
1. Your name
2. Gender
3. Date of birth
4. Phone number (Please write the number where you can be contacted on the day)
5. Whether or not to rent (If yes, please write the rental product name)
6. Beta member or non-member (please write which one)
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For those who have applied, we will send you an e-mail from Beta Climbing Gym at a later date. If you do not receive a reply within 1-2 days after sending the participation application email, please call beta.
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[Deadline] The deadline will be closed as soon as the application reaches the capacity.
[On the day] Please complete the reception (pay the gym usage fee + class fee) and change clothes at Beta [1F] about 30 minutes before the start of the class. Also, please complete the update as necessary.
* If you are not a beta member, you will need to register as a member, so Pre-registration is recommended.
Major achievements
[Competition]
2018 Montura Nanners Cup Her Beginner Division Winner
2019 Montura Dry Touring Championship Women’s 2nd Place
2020 UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup China match semi-final advance Women’s lead 18th
2020 UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup Korea Match Women’s Lead 28th
2020 UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup Annual Overall Ranking: Female Lead 30th
2021 BETA Cup Mixed Male and Female 6th Place
2023 UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup Annual Overall Ranking: Female Lead 21st
[Outer Rock]
Spring 2019 Kamakurayama Hayate D10 RP
Autumn 2020 Futakuchi Valley Kagura D9+ RP
Winter 2021 MIX route (unnamed) M8 RP
*Notice to everyone*
The [3F] climbing area cannot be used by the general public during the course. We apologize for the inconvenience, but thank you for your understanding.
Consultation meeting for nail and finger skin concerns
Tuesday, March 11th
Ronilo Representative Athlete Nail Trainer Mai Masuhara will visit us.
Consultation is free.
If you have any concerns or worries about your nails, please feel free to contact us.
Recently, more and more people are taking care of their toenails. For climbers who wear tight shoes, it’s only natural that their toenails hurt! It may be a lot of people who think.
However, you may be able to relieve the pain by reinforcing your nails with nail care and growing your nails strong.
Please feel free to contact us.
Not only climbers, but mountaineers and trail runners are also welcome. Men! “Let’s learn about the culture of nail care!” Care for weakened nails, care for improving performance, and important for athletes. Of course it’s stylish too!
Please ask the staff on the day. (We will prepare a consultation reservation form. You can also make a reservation in advance.) Learn more about athlete nails
Are you climbing as hard as you can without thinking about your nails and fingertips?
For those who answered No…
-Pain in nails and fingers
・I’m afraid it will get worse because my nails are cracking.
・Ripped finger skin
・I can’t hold the hold well
If you have a problem with your nails or fingers, it will have a bad effect on both your mental and physical…
If you can solve problems with nails and fingers, it may be a hint for achieving goals and collecting tasks! !
The hint to solve the problem is in daily care!
mentally
-Pain in nails and fingers
・I’m afraid it will get worse because my nails are cracking.
・Ripped finger skin
・I can’t hold the hold well
⇒ Anxiety
If there is an element of anxiety, I will save my movement somewhere and I will not be able to put out 100% of my power.
There are many body parts that can be maintained to prevent such anxiety.
Fingertip care is one of them.
Nail care, which is the terminal part, is also connected to mental care, allowing you to fully demonstrate your abilities.
⇒ The important thing is a sense of security
physical
-Pain in nails and fingers
・I’m afraid it will get worse because my nails are cracking.
・Ripped finger skin
・I can’t hold the hold well
⇒ Strength escapes
Bones do not extend to fingertips. Nails, which compensate for this, are important organs that protect the fingertips and control the amount of force applied.
It is nail pressure that makes the most of the functions of the fingertips.
If the nails are in a healthy state, it will be difficult to miss the action of the muscles and tendons of the fingers, the accuracy of the holding will increase, and it will lead to a state where it is easier to demonstrate your ability.
⇒ A healthy body is important
What is nail pressure
Nail pressure means that the nail firmly receives the force applied from the pad of the finger. For example, you can throw the ball farther or faster. When running, the power of kicking out is increased, and the body balance that supports and stabilizes the body is also improved.
From a mental and physical (physical) point of view, nail pressure is an important factor that is indispensable for sports.
Even if you use only boneless fingertips to hold the finger, if the nail is in a healthy and moderately hard state, the nail pressure will support the finger, increasing the sense of stability.
Athlete Nail Trainer® x Climber
◆Trainer Mai Masuhara’s experience story◆
~ Athlete Nail® by a manicurist with ７ years of climbing experience ~
[Before gaining knowledge of athlete nails] I think my nails are a hindrance while climbing ⇒ I had my nails as deep as possible
*Reason: When I had to have a fine hold, it was better not to hit walls and rocks with my nails, and I used to use deep nails when it got in the way. If my nails were too long, it would hit the wall and I felt that I could not hold the ball.
[After gaining knowledge of athlete nails] She finds out that her power is running away⇒Adjust the length of the nail to a length that is easy to climb (= the same length as the outline of the finger) >
*Reason: When holding a small hold, if I adjusted the length of my nails so that it would be easier to climb, I felt a sense of stability when I held it, and it was easier to climb, and I felt less pain in my fingertips.
* Athlete Nail Trainer® is certified by the Athlete Nail Association
Are they different from fashionable nails?
Athlete Nail is a nail maintenance technique that adjusts the length and shape of nails to prevent injuries and improve performance.
・Professional athletes
・Those who exercise as a hobby
・Those who want to prevent injuries to their fingertips due to sports. . .
For all athletes who play sports such as.
Not only for climbers, but also for those who are engaged in sports that abuse their nails, such as trail running and mountain climbing.
Please consult a nail trainer for nail troubles
If you have a friend or family member who is a manicurist, please consult them first if you have any problems!
If you have a solution, it may be easier to talk to someone near you!
Athlete nail trainers specialize in knowledge of damage to nails and around nails caused by athletes’ movements, and techniques to maintain them. Please feel free to contact the athlete nail trainer!
Nail and finger skin worries Past held