NEWS | BETA Climbing Gym - Bouldering - Shinjuku, Tokyo

[Dry Touring] #2 Dojo held on 7/25 (Tue.)

2023年07月04日

The Dora-Two Dojo, which started in June, will be held every month due to its popularity! !
Each month, a theme is given by the Lord, and we train according to the theme.

It will be held on Tuesday, July 25th!
From 20:00 to 22:00, you can come and go as you please. You can come at a time that is convenient for you, and of course you can leave early.

Participation is limited to experienced people.
If you are doing dry touring for the first time, please take “Introduction to dry tooling“.

Held on Tuesday, July 25!

Overview

[Place] Beta [3F]

[Hours] 20:00-22:00 (free entry and exit)

[Dojo owner] Junko Sasakawa
* Profile description at the bottom of the page

[Target] Those who have experienced dry touring
*Participation must be over 18 years old.

[Capacity] 8 people (Priority given to those who have participated less often, first-come-first-served basis if the number of participants is the same)

[Course fee] 3300 yen (tax included)
*Please pay at the reception on the day.

【Belongings】
・Clothes suitable for ice climbing (long sleeves and long pants are recommended. *Short sleeves are fine in summer and other hot seasons, but please be careful.)
・Ice ax (*1)
·Helmet
・Gloves (*2)
・Climbing shoes
*1 Please remove the hammer and adz. See “Preparing the Ax” for more information. please do.
*2 Gloves are essential to prevent injuries and protect your fingers. We recommend getting the perfect size. Leather golf gloves are easy to use, but you can also use thin gloves for work at home centers. It is difficult to climb with loose belay gloves or non-slip gloves.

Items that can be rented —————-
・Ice ax (free/please bring a taping with a width of 25mm or more)
·Helmet
・Climbing shoes (paid 330 yen/please bring socks/rent on 1F and bring to 3F)

[Course content]
Each session will have a theme.
If you want to step up your dry tooling skills, climb until you run out!

Participation

If you would like to participate, please apply at Beta store or email.
▼For e-mail: Please send an e-mail with the following address, subject, and text.
◆ E-mail address: info＠beta-climbing.com
*Please replace the @ (at mark) with half-width characters.
Email subject: Introduction to dry tooling 7/25 Participation request
Email text: Please write the following 1. to 5.
1. Your name
2. Gender
3. Date of birth
4. Phone number (Please write the number where you can be contacted on the day)
5. Whether or not to rent (If yes, please write the rental product name)
6. Beta member or non-member (please write which one)

※※※※※※※
For those who have applied, we will send you an e-mail from Beta Climbing Gym at a later date. If you do not receive a reply within 1-2 days after sending the participation application email, please call beta.
※※※※※※※

[Deadline] The deadline will be closed as soon as the application reaches the capacity.

[On the day] Please complete the reception (pay the gym usage fee + class fee) and change clothes at Beta [1F] about 30 minutes before the start of the class. Also, please complete the update as necessary.
* If you are not a beta member, you will need to register as a member, so Pre-registration is recommended.

Beta Climbing Gym Workshop / Dry Tooling Dojo / Junko Sasagawa

Beta Climbing Gym Seminar/Dry Tooling Dojo/Junko Sasagawa

[Instructor Profile] Junko Sasagawa
Joined the Kanagawa Prefecture Workers’ Mountaineering Federation ・Ginreikai Deputy Representative
In 2018, an all-female alpine climbing club, Ginreikai< /a>. Besides alpine climbing, she also participates in ice climbing and dry touring competitions. She is energetically devoting herself to both mountain and competition.

Major achievements
[Competition]
2018 Montura Nanners Cup Her Beginner Division Winner
2019 Montura Dry Touring Championship Women’s 2nd Place
2020 UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup China match semi-final advance Women’s lead 18th
2020 UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup Korea Match Women’s Lead 28th
2020 UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup Annual Overall Ranking: Female Lead 30th
2021 BETA Cup Mixed Male and Female 6th Place
2023 UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup Annual Overall Ranking: Female Lead 21st

[Outer Rock]

Spring 2019 Kamakurayama Hayate D10 RP
Autumn 2020 Futakuchi Valley Kagura D9+ RP

Winter 2021 MIX route (unnamed) M8 RP

*Notice to everyone*
The [3F] climbing area cannot be used by the general public during the course. We apologize for the inconvenience, but thank you for your understanding.

dry tooling Dojo Past events

Climb, get stronger, get your shoes! July 2023 Monthly Challenge 1F/2F All 30 problems start!

2023年07月01日

July 2023 monthly challenge has started! 　There are 15 tasks on each floor, for a total of 30 tasks.

This month’s monthly is rich in variations, from dynamic challenges to firmly held challenges.
It is easy to climb around No. 1 to 3, and after that it is quite challenging to climb. It might be a little quirky, though. .

Climb, get stronger, get shoes!

⭐︎ For those who haven’t tried it yet, it’s different from tape assignments! “The grade is about level 5.”
⭐︎If you touch number 1 and feel that it is difficult, please touch up to number 4! “Number 4 may be easier than number 1.”
⭐︎ If you have only touched the 1st floor, please climb the 2nd floor and write it on the list! “Your chances of winning will be doubled.”

Please enjoy this month as well! !

■ Monthly Challenge Present
1st prize Climbing shoes of your choice (Choose from Scarpa/Unparallel/Sportiva/Mudrock/Black Diamond)
2nd Prize Original T-shirt
3rd class all-day ticket

Climbing shoes will be presented by lottery to those who climbed the monthly assignment and wrote their name on the check sheet. The number of completed climbs has nothing to do with the probability of winning. It’s OK to do just one assignment. Please challenge! “Simple assignments are about level 5.”
In the beta, we hope that you will enjoy the weekly and monthly challenges and become stronger, and that you will feel that you have become stronger with the permanent regular challenges (tape challenges). Reference videos for tape assignments are uploaded to YouTube. I hope it will be helpful.
The reference video of the weekly assignment is uploaded to Instagram.

Weekly assignments often have a slightly different taste than regular assignments (tape assignments) and monthly assignments.
Please enjoy the weekly assignments as well!

【Dry Tooling】＃20　Toprope Session held on 7/20（THU）Daytime 14:00～　Nighttime 19:30～

2023年07月01日

The dry touring Sotoiwa experience session has ended, and the opportunity to climb using flute boots has disappeared.
You think! “Kazuo-san won’t disappoint you~.”
Bring your flute boots for this dry touring top rope session!
Winter shoes and crampons are fine. . If you don’t have one, of course climbing shoes are fine.

This is a session for dry tooling experienced people.
Experienced doesn’t have to be good. If you have taken “Introduction to dry tooling“, you are an “experienced person”.

It’s also the only chance to vertically climb Beta’s face wall with an ice ax and a rope. Feel free to enjoy!
(Usually, if you use the gym and climb the 3rd floor dry challenge, climbing using a rope is prohibited for safety reasons.)

The route was set by Mr. Kazuhiro Kodaira, who is known as “Kazuo-san” in the dry tooling community. They always put their ingenuity and prepare a fun route.

Not only dry tooling enthusiasts, but also those who love ice climbing, please join us! “Perfect for off-season training and fun!”

If you are new to dry tooling, please take “Introduction to dry tooling” first.

Held on Thursday, July 20

Overview

【Place】BETA climbing gym【3F】

【Time】It will be carried out in two parts
Daytime ：14:00-17:00
Nighttime : 19:30-22:30
*The contents are the same.

【Trainer】Mr.Kazuhiro Kodaira（Nickname:Kazuo-san）
Dry Tooling/Ice Climbing Enthusiast/Photographer

【Target】Experienced dry tooling
※Participation must be 18 years or older.

【Capacity】6 people each time　

【Course fee】3300 yen (tax included)
　*Gym usage fee included.
　*Please pay at the reception on the day.

【Belongings】
Required: Clothing suitable for ice climbing (long sleeves and long pants that are easy to move in), ice ax, helmet, gloves (recommended for golf), climbing shoes, harness *Don’t forget! !

Rental: Ice ax, helmet, climbing shoes (paid 330 yen/please bring your own socks), and harnesses are available for rental.
*Please rent climbing shoes on the 1st floor before coming to the 3rd floor.

Application

If you would like to participate, please apply at Beta climbing gym or email.
▼In the case of e-mail: Please send an e-mail with the following address, subject, and text.
◆Email address: info@beta-climbing.com
*Please replace the @ (at mark) with half-width characters.
◆Email subject: 7/20 request to participate in the dry touring practice session
*　Please write the desired session
◆Email text: Please write the following 1. to 5.
1. Your name
2. Gender
3. Date of birth
4. Phone number (Please write the number where you can be contacted on the day)
5. Whether or not to rent (If yes, please write the rental product name)
6. Beta member or non-member (please write which one)

【Trainer profile】Mr.Kazuhiro Kodaira（Nickname:Kazuo-san）
Dry Tooling/Ice Climbing Enthusiast/Photographer
A rugged yet beloved character. Please play around with it.

※Notice to everyone※
The [3F] climbing area cannot be used by the general public during the course. We apologize for the inconvenience, but thank you for your understanding.

Dry tooling top rope session Past events

【Climber × Athlete Nail】finger skin worries consultation meeting July 13 (Thu)

2023年06月30日

finger skin worries consultation meeting/p>

13(Thu) July
Ronilo Representative Athlete Nail Trainer Mai Masuhara will visit us.
We will be holding a monthly popular nail and finger skin consultation meeting this month as well. Consultation is free.
If you have any concerns or worries about your nails, please feel free to contact us. Especially in this cold and dry season, we see many people having troubles such as cracked skin on their fingers. Please contact us by all means.

Not only climbers, mountaineers and trells are also welcome.
Men! “Let’s learn about the culture of nail care!” Care for weakened nails, care for improving performance, and important for athletes. Of course it’s stylish too!
Please ask the staff on the day. (We will prepare a consultation reservation form. You can also make a reservation in advance.)
More about athlete nailsく

Are you climbing as hard as you can without thinking about your nails and fingertips?

For those who answered No…
・Pain in nails and fingers
・I’m afraid it will get worse because my nails are cracking.
・Ripped finger skin
・I can’t hold the hold well

If you have a problem with your nails or fingers, it will have a bad effect on both your mental and physical…

If you can solve problems with nails and fingers, it may be a hint for achieving goals and collecting tasks! !

The hint to solve the problem is in daily care!

mentally

・Pain in nails and fingers
・I’m afraid it will get worse because my nails are cracking.
・Ripped finger skin
・I can’t hold the hold well

⇒　anxiety
If there is an element of anxiety, I will save my movement somewhere and I will not be able to put out 100% of my power.
There are many body parts that can be maintained to prevent such anxiety.

Fingertip care is one of them.
Nail care, which is the terminal part, is also connected to mental care, allowing you to fully demonstrate your abilities.

⇒　Mental peace of mind is important　

physical

・Pain in nails and fingers
・I’m afraid it will get worse because my nails are cracking.
・Ripped finger skin
・I can’t hold the hold well

⇒　power escapes
Bones do not extend to fingertips. Nails, which compensate for this, are important organs that protect the fingertips and control the amount of force applied.
It is nail pressure that makes the most of the functions of the fingertips.
If the nails are in a healthy state, it will be difficult to miss the action of the muscles and tendons of the fingers, the accuracy of the holding will increase, and it will lead to a state where it is easier to demonstrate your ability.

⇒　A healthy body is important

What is nail pressure

Nail pressure means that the nail firmly receives the force applied from the pad of the finger. For example, you can throw the ball farther or faster. When running, the power of kicking out is increased, and the body balance that supports and stabilizes the body is also improved.

From a mental and physical (physical) point of view, nail pressure is an important factor that is indispensable for sports.
Even if you use only boneless fingertips to hold the finger, if the nail is in a healthy and moderately hard state, the nail pressure will support the finger, increasing the sense of stability.

athlete nail trainer®×climber

◆Trainer Mai Masuhara’s personal experience◆
～Athlete nails® arrived at by a manicurist with 6 years of climbing history～

［Before gaining knowledge of athlete nails］I think my nails are a hindrance while climbing ⇒ I had my nails as deep as possible
＊Reason: When I had to have a fine hold, it was better not to hit walls and rocks with my nails, and I used to use deep nails when it got in the way. If my nails were too long, it would hit the wall, and I felt that I could not hold the ball.

［After gaining knowledge of athlete nails］Know that the power was escaping ⇒ Adjust the length of the nail to a length that is easy to climb (= the same length as the outline of the finger)
＊Reason: When holding a small hold, if I adjusted the length of my nails so that it would be easier to climb, I could feel a sense of stability when I held it and it was easier to climb, and I felt less pain in my fingertips.

※Athlete Nail Trainer® is certified by the Athlete Nail Association

Is it different from fashionable nails?

Athlete Nail is a nail maintenance technique that adjusts the length and shape of nails to prevent injuries and improve performance.

・Professional athletes
・Those who exercise as a hobby
・Those who want to prevent injuries to their fingertips due to sports. . .

For all athletes who play sports such as.
Not only for climbers, but also for those who are engaged in sports that abuse their nails, such as trail running and mountain climbing.

Please consult a nail trainer if you have any problems with your nails.

If you have a friend or family member who is a manicurist, please consult them first if you have any problems!
If you have a solution, it may be easier to talk to someone near you!

Athlete nail trainers specialize in knowledge of damage to nails and around nails caused by athletes’ movements, and techniques to maintain them. Please feel free to contact the athlete nail trainer!

Menu/Price

	HAND		FOOT
filing 　　Adjusting the shape and length of nails	10 minutes	1000 yen	15 minutes	1500 yen
cuticle care 　　Maintenance of nail hairline, hangnail, etc.	20 minutes	2000 yen	20 minutes	2500 yen
reinforcement coat 　　Reinforcement of soft and split nails	10 minutes	1000 yen	10 minutes	1000 yen
Keratin care (around nails) 　　Adjust nail shape and length	10 minutes	1000 yen	15 minutes	1500 yen
Keratin care (palms, soles) 　　Adjust nail shape and length	10 minutes	1000 yen	15 minutes	1500 yen

【July 2023 schedule】Business hours/course/event schedule information

2023年06月29日

Scheduled for July

Three topics for July.

Junko Sensei’s Dry Tooling Dojo
The Dora-Two Dojo, which was held in June and was well received, has been decided to be held every month from now on.
Training according to the theme given by Junko-sensei every month. You will definitely get stronger!
Anyone with dry touring experience can participate.

New course [Rappel course] Let’s get down safely!
We will begin training to descend safely by rappelling.
You can study in an indoor environment that is not affected by the weather.
After the course, if you want to practice outdoors, you can also practice rappelling at the Sotoiwa Super Beginner Lead Practice Meeting.

Yuita Sono Body Maintenance will be closed in July
He said he had a little work to do. We will reopen from August, so please wait for a while!

“Monthly Challenge” where you can win your favorite climbing shoes by lottery, until July 30th (Sun).
Monthly in July, No. 1 and No. 2 seem to be easy to climb. Of course, high single digits to double digits as usual. properly and strictly. So, this month we have a lot of variations and interesting challenges!

Kids School is still recruiting!
Fun class (Thursday/Friday): Aiming to enjoy bouldering, we promote mental growth by improving physical ability and helping each other while playing bouldering.
Sports class (Monday/Wednesday): Aiming to improve climbing skills, by facing bouldering as a sport, you will develop higher-level physical abilities and develop mental and thinking skills such as mental ability, perseverance, and problem-solving skills. encourage growth in
English class (Tuesday): This class uses only English as a means of communication. Both native speakers and non-native speakers can participate.

Then there is maintenance.
It’s important for nails and finger skin, climbers.
The whole body of course.
We encourage you to visit us regularly.

■「Nail/Sashikawa Consultation by Athlete Nail」
July 13th (Thurs) is scheduled.
If you have a problem such as cracked finger skin, please come and visit us!
In addition, we sell all-in-one moisturizing gel AND, beta special price.
It’s getting colder and colder these days. . Take good care of your fingertips! “Moisturize first!”

■Sotoiwa Lead Crack & Multi Practice Session
It’s the rainy season, but I’ll make plans in the hope that it will clear up. I want the day of the outside rock to be sunny.
Super Beginner Lead Seminar 16th (Sun) Mt. Washizu
Lead practice 15 (Sat) Ogawayama, 17 (holiday) Tennoiwa, 25 (Tue) Saku Shiga
Crack practice meeting Ogawayama 2nd (Sunday)
Multi practice meeting 8/5 (Sat)

■Indoor lead climbing beginner class
There is a before and after part, but it is easier to understand if you start from the first part!

■Introduction to indoor multi-pitch climbing
There is a before and after part, but it is easier to understand if you start from the first part!

■Introduction to dry tooling
Don’t let go of your ax when the ice season is over! “We’ll have to start from the beginning again next season.” You can enjoy dry touring all year round!
If you want to start dry touring or are interested, please take Introduction to dry touring.
It will be held on 7/12 (Wednesday)!

■Dry touring top rope session practice session
I will do it again this month. The Dry Touring Top Rope Session is the only opportunity to do a dry touring vertical climb in Beta. You can use flute boots this month too!
It will be held on Thursday, July 20th!

[Dry Touring] #2 Dojo held on 7/25 (Tue.)

Climb, get stronger, get your shoes! July 2023 Monthly Challenge 1F/2F All 30 problems start!

【Dry Tooling】＃20 Toprope Session held on 7/20（THU）Daytime 14:00～ Nighttime 19:30～

【Climber × Athlete Nail】finger skin worries consultation meeting July 13 (Thu)

【July 2023 schedule】Business hours/course/event schedule information

BETA Climbing Gym

【Dry Tooling】＃20　Toprope Session held on 7/20（THU）Daytime 14:00～　Nighttime 19:30～