NEWS | BETA Climbing Gym - Bouldering - Shinjuku, Tokyo

Outline

This is an event to let everyone know about dry tooling and enjoy it.
Haruko Takeuchi, known as Haruko of the World, and Junko Sasagawa, known as Ginreikai Mepanna, who played an active role in the Ice Climbing World Cup in the 2023 season, worked hard to make everyone enjoy themselves!

Whether you are new to Dora-Two or already enjoying Dora-Two, please enjoy!
No reservation required, free admission! “We would appreciate it if you could visit us first!”

Date March 26 (Sun) 9:00-18:00
Location: Beta Climbing Gym
Participation Fee　Admission is free (participation fee will be charged for each program you participate in)

Eve March 25th (Sat) 20:00-

Content

For beginners

Dry tooling experience
Figure 4 Photo Session

Beginners

Beginner course
Workshop (pick sharpening / grip tape winding)

For experienced users

Step-up course 1.2
Undermove class
Stamp Rally! “Dora Two Task Challenge!” Main event! !

For all visitors

Talk show by Masayuki Nara, a charismatic figure in the ice climbing world

Beginner program
■Dry Touring Experience
If you want to experience dry touring, go to this corner right after entering from the entrance of BETA. With full equipment rental and lectures, even first-timers can easily experience the dry world.
Our staff Haruko is looking forward to your participation.
You can experience both boulder style and top rope style.
Recommended for ice climbers! “Best for off-season training!”

Participation fee: 1100 yen each
Hours: 1F 9:00-17:00 2F 9:00-12:00/15:00-17:00

■ Figure 4 photo session
Click here for those who want to challenge figure 4, the star move of dry touring! With the support of the staff, you can take cool pictures. As with the experience, it will be held on the 1st floor.
*Please note that you may have to wait for the dry touring experience during the photo session.

Participation fee 550 yen
Hours: 1F 9:00-13:00/15:00-16:00

A program for beginners
■Beginner course
A course for beginners by Junko Sasakawa
This time, the main event is the “stamp rally”, and you can try the challenges on the 2nd and 3rd floors. Even in front of you, you might get tired because you don’t know the tricks of Dora Two and how to handle the gear! ? ?

In order to enjoy the stamp rally tasks even more, why not try the “Basics of Dora Two” first!?

Of course, those who do not participate in the stamp rally but would like to learn the basics of Dora Two are also welcome.

Participation fee 1100 yen
Hours: 10:00-11:00
What to bring: Ice ax, helmet, gloves, climbing shoes, harness *Rental available

■Workshop
Mr. Masato Nakajima, who was active in the 2023 season Ice Climbing World Cup, is in charge
“pick sharpening”
Don’t be afraid of bad holds and metals with a well-sharpened pick! Based on my extensive experience in competitions and rocky areas, I will tell you about the shape of a good pick and how to sharpen it.
“Grip tape winding”
Don’t underestimate it as just grip tape, just by changing the material and winding method, the ease of holding will be different, in other words, the endurance will increase! You may be able to climb that challenge that always falls down!?

Both are held on the 3.5th floor, and you can participate with one coin (500 yen), so don’t miss it.
In addition, on the day of the festival, you can drink coffee made with beans roasted by Mr. Nakajima himself for free (possibly with handmade sweets)!

Participation fee: 550 yen each
Holding time Pick shaving: 10:00-11:00 14:00-15:00
Grip tape winding 11:00-12:00

Experienced program
■ Step-up course 1.2
Junko Sasagawa’s lecture will be a step up.
Do you have a lot of troubles like Dora-Two, but your arms suddenly pump up, you can’t stand strong slopes, you get tired easily, you just can’t reach that hold, and so on?
I will give you one-point advice according to your level so that you can climb a little easier, reach more, and climb in a good position.

If you are worried about your own climb, come on! If you do the stamp rally task after taking this, you’ll discover something new Duck… Duck

Participation fee: 1100 yen each
Hours: 11:00-12:00 16:00-17:00
What to bring: ice ax, helmet, gloves, climbing shoes, harness *Rental available

■Undermove course
A course specializing in under moves by Haruko Takeuchi.
under. That is the No. 1 weak move for girls.
under. When it doesn’t reach, the solution tends to be “physical”. Even if you say, “If you raise your leg, you can reach it,” it tends to be difficult to get out if you raise it.
In order to solve your worries, we will tell you the “under improvement method” according to each person’s technique and physical strength.
If you take this course, you may be able to fly a little longer than yesterday!?

Participation fee 1100 yen
Hours: 13:00-14:00
What to bring: Ice ax, helmet, gloves, climbing shoes *Rental available

■Stamp Rally! “Dora Two Task Challenge!” “Main event!” !
An event to challenge the special challenges of dry touring set in the 2nd floor (bouldering) and 3rd floor (top rope) areas of Beta Climbing Gym. Stamp rally participants will win prizes by lottery. Stamp rally participants can also participate in the talk show by Masayuki Nara for free.

Participation fee 4400 yen
Hours: 9:00-18:00
What to bring: ice ax, helmet, gloves, climbing shoes, harness *Rental available

Program for all visitors
■ Charismatic Ice Climbing World Masayuki Nara Talk Show
A charismatic ice climber from Hokkaido has arrived at BETA!
Mr. Masayuki Nara, who continues to take on new challenges while dealing with an intractable disease, dilated cardiomyopathy, asks, “Why do you climb? What are you aiming for through the many adventures you have gone on?” He will talk about the route he has developed so far and what he is currently challenging.

profile
Born in 1972. I live in Hokkaido and my main occupation is a firefighter. In addition to ice and mixed climbing, he climbs 5.14a in free, enjoys river kayaking, skiing, and swimming. In 2014, he participated in the ice climbing demonstration at the Sochi Olympics as a representative of Japan, and has been active in the ice climbing World Cup for many years. In recent years, he has been actively developing climbing areas in Hokkaido, and in February 2019, he won the Grand Prize of Development by the Japan Development Climber Association together with Mitsugu Yoshida in the new field of deep water solo + jumping. In 2022, he developed dilated cardiomyopathy (a designated intractable disease in which the heart muscle thins, expands, and loses contractile force), and although his heart function drops to 54% of normal, he will make a comeback this winter with an indomitable spirit. Regardless of genre, many people are fascinated by the way he always takes on new challenges by mobilizing his own abilities.

Participation fee 1100 yen
Hours: 17:00-18:00

Organizer Introduction

Junko Sasakawa, aka “Ginreikai Mepanna”
Participated in the Ice Climbing World Cup from 2020. Despite failing to advance to the semi-finals of the World Cup against South Korea this season, they ranked 17th.

An all-rounder who can handle sports, alpine, trad, and ice. He likes and is good at thinking about “how can this person grow further?”

Such Junko is greedy for her own growth and does not mind steady practice, so she continues to steadily improve her personal best even in overseas competitions where strong members gather. I can speak English, French, and Korean, and I’m used to traveling, so it’s very reassuring when I’m on an expedition.

On the day of the Dora two festival, we will welcome you at the stamp rally corner on the 2nd floor, so if you have any questions, please ask.

⚛ Steady growth every year
Good at ice/rock parts and labor-saving moves
⚛
⚛ When I see someone in need, I can’t leave them alone
⚛
⚛Recent favorite is JUNON from BE:FIRST

Photo by @thatcrazydutchguy

Haruko Takeuchi, “SEKAI NO Haruko”
Participated in the Ice Climbing World Cup from 2019. This season, he qualified for all three World Cups and three European Championships, and made it to the finals in five of the six races.

Haruko is such a Tsuyotsuyo, but he’s usually very quiet, and that gap can be said to be a charm. I’m a geek, so if I ask him to explain my moves, he’ll do it endlessly (while grinning).

On the day of the Dora two festival, I think that I will be waiting for the people who come to experience Dora two mainly on the first floor while grinning. Nice to meet you on the day.

⚛ Japanese women’s strongest
⚛ Top level among the girls in the world
⚛
⚛
⚛ The move that puts out the distance is also perfect
⚛

Photo by @thatcrazydutchguy

Sponsor company introduction

Beta Climbing Gym｜Spring Dora Touring Festival

(in no particular order)

Lost Arrow Co., Ltd.
Needless to say, a company that imports essential gear for climbing and mountaineering such as Scarpa, Black Diamond, and Metrius.
The company is run by climbers of climbers and the prices are reasonable. Isn’t there a lot of people who are indebted to you?
As for the beta, all the rental shoes were scarpa force. We have known each other ever since.

Columbia Sportswear Japan Co., Ltd.
A company that deals with famous brands including Colombia. There are many people who prepare a set of Colombian clothing when climbing Mt. Fuji.
Mountain hardware is familiar in the climbing area.
It was impressive that a super alpinist who was personally called Swiss Machine was sponsored.
Beta has sponsored dry touring events several times.

Caravan Inc.
At the same time as being a long-established domestic mountain climbing shoe manufacturer, we are also importing mountain climbing brand products. Climbers are familiar with Unparallel, No Grade, Rock Master, Kamp, and Totem.
We are selling Rock Master’s Rock Socks even in Beta.
Personally, I was shocked by Kamp’s nanotech crampons and ice ax, their lightness and strength.

Dear UP ATHLETE
I think there are a lot of people who are indebted to Jim Climber.
yes. This is a manufacturer of essential supplements for climbers. BCAA and EAA are on sale even in beta. Supplement before, during and after climbing!

TAT Inc.
Professional wholesale company for nail products. ? It may be a lot of people who think.
In Beta, we are indebted to Athlete Nail products. The most popular “nail reinforcement coat“, “nail oil” “Nail Essence” All are TAT products.

Dear RONILO
Jingumae hair and makeup, eyelash, and nail salon. me too? It may be a lot of people who think. .
This is the salon of Mai Masuhara, an athlete nail nail trainer who is indebted to the nail finger skin consultation meeting.
all-in-one moisturizing gel “AND”, which is placed as a sample in beta, is being sold. I will.

2023/3/1 The 1st floor renovation has been completed.

This time, we welcomed Tomoya Ishiwata and Keita Doi as guests, and set up with Beta’s Shun and Kaito.

At the beginning of the set, the atmosphere was quiet, but as the test climbs continued, they understood each other better and seemed to be enjoying the set.
As for Dohike, after the set, I enjoyed the problemst of Dai Oyamada on the 2nd floor.

We think you’ve come up with an interesting challenge. Enjoy everyone!

Tomoya Ishiwata
@Forge.Bouldering store manager
@hazamaholds

Mr. Watamoya, who is familiar with the TNFC set, also produces holds. Mr. Watamoya’s problems is difficult to decipher at first glance, but once you get into it, you get the impression that it will lead you. What do you think?
We hope you enjoy the unique positional instability!

Career
Former Base Camp Tokyo store manager
現在 Forge Bouldering store manager
Ena Passion V12
Yugawara・Zion Gate
MIzugaki・Kudo V12

Keita Dohi
Bouldering Japan national team
Athletes for the Paris Olympics
Many people may think of this person as competition slabwall.
Nicknamed “Dohike” and has many fans, Doi’s footwork was nothing short of amazing during the set!
We have a strong image of a competition, but perhaps because we are also energetically engaged in activities on rocky grounds, we feel that there were many challenges that required delicacy in dynamic movements.

Career
Ena・Tokoyo V14
Drink the sea V13
BJC 2022 2nd place,Many other competition awards

January 2023 Monthly Challenge Climbing Shoes Present We gave it!

Spring Dry Tooling Festival held 3/26 (Sun)

January 2023 Monthly Challenge Climbing Shoes Present We gave it!

March 1, 2023 1F Full Renewal The END

March 13, 2023 Notice of Mask mandate lifted

BETA Climbing Gym