アイスクライミング | BETA Climbing Gym - Bouldering - Shinjuku, Tokyo

【Dry Tooling】 #46 Introductory Held on 4/12 (Wednesday)

2023年04月05日

April’s introduction to dry touring will be held on April 12th (Wednesday), welcoming “Ginreikai Mepanna”!

Thanks to the “Spring Dry Touring Festival” held on March 26th, it was a great success.
The “beginner class” that Ms. Mepanna was in charge of was also a great success. I narrowed down the content at the event, but here you can receive a lecture in the full version.
For those of you who participated, why not take the course again?

Dry tooling is climbing using ice axes and crampons to climb rock walls and artificial walls.

There are many climbers who enjoy dry tooling as a competition and incorporate it as training for ice climbing and alpine climbing.
This course is for those who want to start dry tooling, those who have experienced dry tooling several times but want to learn from the basics properly.

I use an ax to climb, but don’t worry if you don’t have your own ax, I will rent it for you.

Even if you are new to Beta drywall, please take this course.
If you want to use Beta drywall, please take this course first
For details and to apply, please visit the official website

The number of times you can participate in the introductory class will be up to 3 times. After graduating from the introductory class, you can practice on your own, or if you want to practice with everyone, please use the “Dry Tooling Practice Meeting”.。

Held on Wednesday, April 12！

Overview

【Place】 Beta [3F]

【Time】 19:30-22:30

【Lecturer】 Ms.Junko
※Profile description at the bottom of the page

【Target】 dry tooling inexperienced & beginners
※There is no limit on the number of times you can participate, but please note that if there are more applications than the capacity, we may ask those who have participated many times to refrain from doing so.
※Participation must be 18 years or older.

【Capacity】 8 people (Priority will be given to those who participate less often.first-come-first-served basis if the number of participants is the same)

【Course fee】 4400 yen (tax included)
※Please pay at the reception on the day.

【Belongings】
・Clothes suitable for ice climbing (long sleeves and long pants are recommended *Short sleeves are fine in hot weather such as summer, but please be careful)
・Ice ax (*1)
・Helmet
・Gloves (*2)
・Climbing shoes
※1 Please remove the hammer and adz. See “Preparing the Ax” for more information. please do.
※2　Gloves are essential for injury prevention and finger skin protection. We recommend that you get the perfect size. Leather golf gloves are easy to use, but you can also use thin gloves for work at home centers. It is difficult to climb with loose belay gloves or non-slip gloves.

Items that can be rented —————-
・Ice ax (free/please bring a taping with a width of 25mm or more)
・Helmet
・Climbing shoes (paid 300 yen/please bring socks/rent on 1F and bring to 3F)

【Course content】
・Differences between dry tooling and ice climbing (tools/moves)
・How to use the ax (how to grip, switch hands, hold)
・Dry tooling practice Traverse task using ice ax, basics of figure 4 and figure 9

About participation

If you would like to participate, please apply at Beta climbing gym or email.
▼In the case of e-mail: Please send an e-mail with the following address, subject, and text.
◆E-mail destination：info＠beta-climbing.com
※Please replace the @ (at mark) with half-width characters.
◆email subject：4/12 Hope to participate in dry touring introductory
◆Email text: Please write the following 1. to 5.
1. Your name
2. Gender
3. Date of birth
4. Phone number (Please write the number where you can be contacted on the day)
5. Whether or not to rent (If yes, please write the rental product name)
6. Beta member or non-member (please write which one)

※※※※※※※
For those who have applied, we will send you an e-mail from Beta Climbing Gym at a later date. If you do not receive a reply within 1-2 days after sending the participation application email, please call beta.
※※※※※※※

【Deadline】Applications will be closed once the capacity is reached.

Beta Climbing Gym Seminar/Introduction to Dry Touring/Junko Sasagawa

【Instructor Profile】 Junko Sasakawa
Joined the Kanagawa Prefecture Workers’ Mountaineering Federation ・Ginreikai Deputy Representative
In 2018, an all-female alpine climbing club, Ginreikai. Besides alpine climbing, she also participates in ice climbing and dry touring competitions. She is energetically devoting herself to both mountain and competition.

Major achievements
【Competition】
2018 Montura Nanners Cup Beginner Division Winner
2019 Montura Dry Touring Championship Women’s 2nd Place
2020 UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup China match, semi-final advance Women’s lead 18th
2020 UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup Korea Match Women’s Lead 28th
2020 UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup Annual Overall Ranking: Women’s Lead 30th
2021 BETA Cup Mixed Male and Female 6th Place
2023 UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup Annual Overall Ranking: Women’s Lead 21th

【Outer Rock】

Spring 2019 Kamakurayama Hayate D10 RP
Autumn 2020 Futakuchi Valley Kagura D9+ RP

Winter 2021 MIX route (unnamed) M8 RP

*Notice to everyone*
The [3F] climbing area cannot be used by the general public during the course. We apologize for the inconvenience, but thank you for your understanding.

Introduction to dry tooling Past events

Spring Dry Tooling Festival held 3/26 (Sun)

2023年03月17日

Outline

This is an event to let everyone know about dry tooling and enjoy it.
Haruko Takeuchi, known as Haruko of the World, and Junko Sasagawa, known as Ginreikai Mepanna, who played an active role in the Ice Climbing World Cup in the 2023 season, worked hard to make everyone enjoy themselves!

Whether you are new to Dora-Two or already enjoying Dora-Two, please enjoy!
No reservation required, free admission! “We would appreciate it if you could visit us first!”

Date March 26 (Sun) 9:00-18:00
Location: Beta Climbing Gym
Participation Fee　Admission is free (participation fee will be charged for each program you participate in)

Eve March 25th (Sat) 20:00-

Content

For beginners

Dry tooling experience
Figure 4 Photo Session

Beginners

Beginner course
Workshop (pick sharpening / grip tape winding)

For experienced users

Step-up course 1.2
Undermove class
Stamp Rally! “Dora Two Task Challenge!” Main event! !

For all visitors

Talk show by Masayuki Nara, a charismatic figure in the ice climbing world

Beginner program
■Dry Touring Experience
If you want to experience dry touring, go to this corner right after entering from the entrance of BETA. With full equipment rental and lectures, even first-timers can easily experience the dry world.
Our staff Haruko is looking forward to your participation.
You can experience both boulder style and top rope style.
Recommended for ice climbers! “Best for off-season training!”

Participation fee: 1100 yen each
Hours: 1F 9:00-17:00 2F 9:00-12:00/15:00-17:00

■ Figure 4 photo session
Click here for those who want to challenge figure 4, the star move of dry touring! With the support of the staff, you can take cool pictures. As with the experience, it will be held on the 1st floor.
*Please note that you may have to wait for the dry touring experience during the photo session.

Participation fee 550 yen
Hours: 1F 9:00-13:00/15:00-16:00

A program for beginners
■Beginner course
A course for beginners by Junko Sasakawa
This time, the main event is the “stamp rally”, and you can try the challenges on the 2nd and 3rd floors. Even in front of you, you might get tired because you don’t know the tricks of Dora Two and how to handle the gear! ? ?

In order to enjoy the stamp rally tasks even more, why not try the “Basics of Dora Two” first!?

Of course, those who do not participate in the stamp rally but would like to learn the basics of Dora Two are also welcome.

Participation fee 1100 yen
Hours: 10:00-11:00
What to bring: Ice ax, helmet, gloves, climbing shoes, harness *Rental available

■Workshop
Mr. Masato Nakajima, who was active in the 2023 season Ice Climbing World Cup, is in charge
“pick sharpening”
Don’t be afraid of bad holds and metals with a well-sharpened pick! Based on my extensive experience in competitions and rocky areas, I will tell you about the shape of a good pick and how to sharpen it.
“Grip tape winding”
Don’t underestimate it as just grip tape, just by changing the material and winding method, the ease of holding will be different, in other words, the endurance will increase! You may be able to climb that challenge that always falls down!?

Both are held on the 3.5th floor, and you can participate with one coin (500 yen), so don’t miss it.
In addition, on the day of the festival, you can drink coffee made with beans roasted by Mr. Nakajima himself for free (possibly with handmade sweets)!

Participation fee: 550 yen each
Holding time Pick shaving: 10:00-11:00 14:00-15:00
Grip tape winding 11:00-12:00

Experienced program
■ Step-up course 1.2
Junko Sasagawa’s lecture will be a step up.
Do you have a lot of troubles like Dora-Two, but your arms suddenly pump up, you can’t stand strong slopes, you get tired easily, you just can’t reach that hold, and so on?
I will give you one-point advice according to your level so that you can climb a little easier, reach more, and climb in a good position.

If you are worried about your own climb, come on! If you do the stamp rally task after taking this, you’ll discover something new Duck… Duck

Participation fee: 1100 yen each
Hours: 11:00-12:00 16:00-17:00
What to bring: ice ax, helmet, gloves, climbing shoes, harness *Rental available

■Undermove course
A course specializing in under moves by Haruko Takeuchi.
under. That is the No. 1 weak move for girls.
under. When it doesn’t reach, the solution tends to be “physical”. Even if you say, “If you raise your leg, you can reach it,” it tends to be difficult to get out if you raise it.
In order to solve your worries, we will tell you the “under improvement method” according to each person’s technique and physical strength.
If you take this course, you may be able to fly a little longer than yesterday!?

Participation fee 1100 yen
Hours: 13:00-14:00
What to bring: Ice ax, helmet, gloves, climbing shoes *Rental available

■Stamp Rally! “Dora Two Task Challenge!” “Main event!” !
An event to challenge the special challenges of dry touring set in the 2nd floor (bouldering) and 3rd floor (top rope) areas of Beta Climbing Gym. Stamp rally participants will win prizes by lottery. Stamp rally participants can also participate in the talk show by Masayuki Nara for free.

Participation fee 4400 yen
Hours: 9:00-18:00
What to bring: ice ax, helmet, gloves, climbing shoes, harness *Rental available

Program for all visitors
■ Charismatic Ice Climbing World Masayuki Nara Talk Show
A charismatic ice climber from Hokkaido has arrived at BETA!
Mr. Masayuki Nara, who continues to take on new challenges while dealing with an intractable disease, dilated cardiomyopathy, asks, “Why do you climb? What are you aiming for through the many adventures you have gone on?” He will talk about the route he has developed so far and what he is currently challenging.

profile
Born in 1972. I live in Hokkaido and my main occupation is a firefighter. In addition to ice and mixed climbing, he climbs 5.14a in free, enjoys river kayaking, skiing, and swimming. In 2014, he participated in the ice climbing demonstration at the Sochi Olympics as a representative of Japan, and has been active in the ice climbing World Cup for many years. In recent years, he has been actively developing climbing areas in Hokkaido, and in February 2019, he won the Grand Prize of Development by the Japan Development Climber Association together with Mitsugu Yoshida in the new field of deep water solo + jumping. In 2022, he developed dilated cardiomyopathy (a designated intractable disease in which the heart muscle thins, expands, and loses contractile force), and although his heart function drops to 54% of normal, he will make a comeback this winter with an indomitable spirit. Regardless of genre, many people are fascinated by the way he always takes on new challenges by mobilizing his own abilities.

Participation fee 1100 yen
Hours: 17:00-18:00

Organizer Introduction

Junko Sasakawa, aka “Ginreikai Mepanna”
Participated in the Ice Climbing World Cup from 2020. Despite failing to advance to the semi-finals of the World Cup against South Korea this season, they ranked 17th.

An all-rounder who can handle sports, alpine, trad, and ice. He likes and is good at thinking about “how can this person grow further?”

Such Junko is greedy for her own growth and does not mind steady practice, so she continues to steadily improve her personal best even in overseas competitions where strong members gather. I can speak English, French, and Korean, and I’m used to traveling, so it’s very reassuring when I’m on an expedition.

On the day of the Dora two festival, we will welcome you at the stamp rally corner on the 2nd floor, so if you have any questions, please ask.

⚛ Steady growth every year
Good at ice/rock parts and labor-saving moves
⚛
⚛ When I see someone in need, I can’t leave them alone
⚛
⚛Recent favorite is JUNON from BE:FIRST

Photo by @thatcrazydutchguy

Haruko Takeuchi, “SEKAI NO Haruko”
Participated in the Ice Climbing World Cup from 2019. This season, he qualified for all three World Cups and three European Championships, and made it to the finals in five of the six races.

Haruko is such a Tsuyotsuyo, but he’s usually very quiet, and that gap can be said to be a charm. I’m a geek, so if I ask him to explain my moves, he’ll do it endlessly (while grinning).

On the day of the Dora two festival, I think that I will be waiting for the people who come to experience Dora two mainly on the first floor while grinning. Nice to meet you on the day.

⚛ Japanese women’s strongest
⚛ Top level among the girls in the world
⚛
⚛
⚛ The move that puts out the distance is also perfect
⚛

Photo by @thatcrazydutchguy

Sponsor company introduction

Beta Climbing Gym｜Spring Dora Touring Festival

(in no particular order)

Lost Arrow Co., Ltd.
Needless to say, a company that imports essential gear for climbing and mountaineering such as Scarpa, Black Diamond, and Metrius.
The company is run by climbers of climbers and the prices are reasonable. Isn’t there a lot of people who are indebted to you?
As for the beta, all the rental shoes were scarpa force. We have known each other ever since.

Columbia Sportswear Japan Co., Ltd.
A company that deals with famous brands including Colombia. There are many people who prepare a set of Colombian clothing when climbing Mt. Fuji.
Mountain hardware is familiar in the climbing area.
It was impressive that a super alpinist who was personally called Swiss Machine was sponsored.
Beta has sponsored dry touring events several times.

Caravan Inc.
At the same time as being a long-established domestic mountain climbing shoe manufacturer, we are also importing mountain climbing brand products. Climbers are familiar with Unparallel, No Grade, Rock Master, Kamp, and Totem.
We are selling Rock Master’s Rock Socks even in Beta.
Personally, I was shocked by Kamp’s nanotech crampons and ice ax, their lightness and strength.

Dear UP ATHLETE
I think there are a lot of people who are indebted to Jim Climber.
yes. This is a manufacturer of essential supplements for climbers. BCAA and EAA are on sale even in beta. Supplement before, during and after climbing!

TAT Inc.
Professional wholesale company for nail products. ? It may be a lot of people who think.
In Beta, we are indebted to Athlete Nail products. The most popular “nail reinforcement coat“, “nail oil” “Nail Essence” All are TAT products.

Dear RONILO
Jingumae hair and makeup, eyelash, and nail salon. me too? It may be a lot of people who think. .
This is the salon of Mai Masuhara, an athlete nail nail trainer who is indebted to the nail finger skin consultation meeting.
all-in-one moisturizing gel “AND”, which is placed as a sample in beta, is being sold. I will.

【Dry Tooling】＃51　Beginner dry tooling session with professional ice climber Nae Yagi March 20 (Monday)

2023年02月28日

A dry tooling session using ice axes was held on the mantle wall and lead wall of Beta Climbing Gym [3F]. The instructor is Nae Yagi, a professional ice climber.
In a session for dry touolng beginners, we will give advice according to each level, such as how to use an ax and move while climbing a specially prepared session problems.

It will be held twice a day, so please participate in the times that are convenient for you. Both sessions are 70 minutes.
The gym’s boulder wall is available before and after your session.

＜Part 1＞19:00～　＜Part 2＞21:00～

As a premise to climb the beta 3F dry problems, you will be asked to learn about safety management in the “Introduction to Dry Touolng” course, but those who participated in this session can climb the 3F dry problems without taking the course. can do.

Held on Monday, February 27!

Overview

【Date and time】Monday, March 20, 2023 19:00- / 21:00-

【Place】Beta Climbing Gym 3F / Akebono Boulder (Mantle Wall) / Shinjuku Face (lead Wall)

Session with professional ice climber Nae Yagi! !

Let’s learn how to use the ax and move unique to dry.

【Instructor】Nae Yagi (professional ice climber)

【Target/Capacity/Details/Participation fee】
Target: Beginners to dry tooling *Inexperienced people can also participate, but first, take “Introduction to dry tooling” I recommend that you

Capacity: 9 people in each section

Contents: Let’s learn together through the session!

Participation fee: 4,000 yen (tax included)
～Part 1 19:00～20:10 (70 minutes)～
～Part 2 21:00～22:10 (70 minutes)～

※Participation fee includes daily usage fee for beta.
※Please pay at the [1F] reception on the day.
※If you are not a beta member, please register as a member (free).　→Pre-registration is convenient for member registration (free)!！
※Participation must be 18 years or older.

【Belongings】Clothes suitable for dry tooling (easy-to-move clothes with long sleeves and long pants), ice axes, helmets, gloves (recommended for golf), climbing shoes, ice tools (optional).
There are rentals other than gloves.　Please come to the 3rd floor after picking it up on the 1st floor.
※Climbing shoes (please bring socks) / Helmets are charged (330 yen each)

【Insurance】Please join by yourself if necessary.

Participation

【Application for participation】If you would like to participate, please apply at the beta store or by email.

▼In the case of e-mail: Please send an e-mail with the following address, subject, and text.
◆Email address: info＠beta-climbing.com
※Please replace the @ (at mark) with half-width characters.
◆Email subject: Request to participate in dry tooling session on 3/20
◆Email text: Please write the following 1. to 5.
1. Your name
2. Gender
3. Date of birth
4. Phone number (Please write the number where you can be contacted on the day)
5. Session to participate or (Please write which one)
6. Rental availability　(If yes, product name: helmet/ice ax)
7. Beta member or non-member (please write which one)

【Deadline】Applications will be closed as soon as the capacity is reached.

【that day】Please complete reception and change clothes at Beta [1F] about 30 minutes before the session starts. Also, if necessary, please finish up on the [1F] [2F] climbing wall.
※If you are not a beta member, you will need to register as a member, so we recommend that you complete pre-registration in advance.

Detailed profile of Nae Yagi
prof_naeyagi02

Nae Yagi, born in Osaka in 1984, is a professional ice climber. She has been involved in mountain climbing and climbing since childhood.
In 2001, she won the 6th Kinki High School Climbing Tournament, and in 2002, it was only natural that she would win the championship again. ” appears bravely.

After graduating from high school, won the junior division of the JOC Junior Olympic Cup, which is organized by the Japanese Olympic Committee to foster future Olympians. He has won the championship (2004), finished 8th in the Asian Championship (2005), and has continued to achieve good results, including many cup competitions in various parts of Japan.

Seen as a climber who will carry the next generation of climbing on his back, he has gradually shifted his focus to ice climbing since the 2009 season. “When I was trying to make a living by competing and making a living, I chose a place where I could stand at the top,” he says. After graduating from university, I belonged to Maruhan Co., Ltd., which manages pachinko parlors. Active as Japan’s first corporate climber, chose the professional path from the 2013 season, and participated in all ice climbing World Cup competitions for the first time in Japan.

[War record]
2001: 6th Kinki High School Climbing Tournament 1st Place
2002: Asian Youth Championship Malaysia Tournament 3rd Place
2003: 6th Junior Olympic Junior Champion
2003: National Athletic Meet (adult women’s division) 2nd place
2005: Asian Championship Iran Tournament 8th
2008: Japan Championship 5th
2011: Ice Climbing World Cup Cheonsong 15th
2013: Ice Cllimbing World Tour Ranking 18th
2014: Ice Cllimbing World Tour Speed category 10th overall
2014: Participated in the Sochi Olympic Climbing Festa

Dry tooling session held in the past

【Dry Tooling】＃16　Toprope Session held on 3/16（THU）Daytime 15:30～　Nighttime 19:30～

2023年02月21日

We changed the name from this month!
“Practice session” ⇒ “Top rope session”

This is a session for dry tooling experienced people.
Experienced doesn’t have to be good. If you have taken “Introduction to dry tooling“, you are an “experienced person”.

It’s also the only chance to vertically climb Beta’s face wall with an ice ax and a rope. Feel free to enjoy!
(Usually, if you use the gym and climb the 3rd floor dry challenge, climbing using a rope is prohibited for safety reasons.)

The route was set by Mr. Kazuhiro Kodaira, who is known as “Kazuo-san” in the dry tooling community. They always put their ingenuity and prepare a fun route.

Not only dry tooling enthusiasts, but also those who love ice climbing, please join us! “Perfect for off-season training and fun!”

If you are new to dry tooling, please take “Introduction to dry tooling” first.

Held on Thursday, March 16!

Overview

【Place】BETA climbing gym【3F】

【Time】It will be carried out in two parts
Daytime ：15:30-18:30
Nighttime : 19:30-22:30
*The contents are the same.

【Trainer】Mr.Kazuhiro Kodaira（Nickname:Kazuo-san）
Dry Tooling/Ice Climbing Enthusiast/Photographer

【Target】Experienced dry tooling
※Participation must be 18 years or older.

【Capacity】6 people each time　

【Course fee】3000 yen (tax included)
　*Gym usage fee included.
　*Please pay at the reception on the day.

【Belongings】
Required: Clothing suitable for ice climbing (long sleeves and long pants that are easy to move in), ice ax, helmet, gloves (recommended for golf), climbing shoes, harness *Don’t forget! !

Rental: Ice ax, helmet, climbing shoes (paid 330 yen/please bring your own socks), and harnesses are available for rental.
*Please rent climbing shoes on the 1st floor before coming to the 3rd floor.

Application

If you would like to participate, please apply at Beta climbing gym or email.
▼In the case of e-mail: Please send an e-mail with the following address, subject, and text.
◆Email address: info@beta-climbing.com
*Please replace the @ (at mark) with half-width characters.
◆Email subject: 3/16 request to participate in the dry touring practice session
*　Please write the desired session
◆Email text: Please write the following 1. to 5.
1. Your name
2. Gender
3. Date of birth
4. Phone number (Please write the number where you can be contacted on the day)
5. Whether or not to rent (If yes, please write the rental product name)
6. Beta member or non-member (please write which one)

【Trainer profile】Mr.Kazuhiro Kodaira（Nickname:Kazuo-san）
Dry Tooling/Ice Climbing Enthusiast/Photographer
A rugged yet beloved character. Please play around with it.

※Notice to everyone※
The [3F] climbing area cannot be used by the general public during the course. We apologize for the inconvenience, but thank you for your understanding.

ドライツーリング練習会　過去の開催

Top of Page

【Dry Tooling】 #46 Introductory Held on 4/12 (Wednesday)

【Dry Tooling】＃17 Toprope Session held on 4/13（THU）Daytime 14:00～ Nighttime 19:30～

Spring Dry Tooling Festival held 3/26 (Sun)

【Dry Tooling】＃51 Beginner dry tooling session with professional ice climber Nae Yagi March 20 (Monday)

【Dry Tooling】＃16 Toprope Session held on 3/16（THU）Daytime 15:30～ Nighttime 19:30～

BETA Climbing Gym

【Dry Tooling】＃17　Toprope Session held on 4/13（THU）Daytime 14:00～　Nighttime 19:30～

【Dry Tooling】＃51　Beginner dry tooling session with professional ice climber Nae Yagi March 20 (Monday)

【Dry Tooling】＃16　Toprope Session held on 3/16（THU）Daytime 15:30～　Nighttime 19:30～