2024/2/17-18 An ice climbing course was held at Yonago Fudo/Bizarre Falls.
In cooperation with Mountain Works, instructors We welcomed Kenji Narita.
There were 6 participants. All women. To support us, Junko Sasagawa, who is an Ice Climbing World Cup finalist and instructor of Beta’s dry touring course, and Beta Ozawa accompanied us.
The Yonago Fudo area is known for its many difficult icefalls suitable for advanced climbers, and for its long approaches. Bizarre Falls is an introductory route within the Yonago Fudo area.
Although the ice conditions were not good, we had our Narita guide set up a top rope and climbed up using 4 routes.
Day1 February 17th
Those traveling by car will take the Beta train at 3 o’clock, and those taking the train will take the Shinkansen at 6 o’clock.
Meet at Nagano Station at 8am and drive for about 30 minutes from there to the day-trip hot spring facility, Yukkuland. Meet the guide at .
Change cars and go to the trailhead. Arrived at the trailhead parking lot before 10am.
There wasn’t much snow this time, so we were able to travel by car instead of riding a snowmobile.
After walking the mountain trail for about an hour, we decided to stay overnight Go to Nekodake Sanso. On the way, we visited Fudo Falls, a sacred shrine, and prayed at Yonago Takiyama Fudoson Okunoin Temple, which has been used as a Shugen dojo from the Edo period to the present.
After a light lunch at the mountain hut and a walk next to Fudo Falls, we headed to our destination, the Bizarre Falls.
On the way, from the observation deck of the sulfur mine ruins, you will be impressed by the panoramic view of the icefalls in the Yonago area.
The time was 13:00 and we arrived at the waterfall in about 40 minutes.
The ice conditions were not very good, so the guide team that was the starting team seemed to be in trouble.
At that time, Junko-sensei said, “Let’s practice hitting the ice!” and everyone took out their axes and started checking their form.
The guide team, who had seen the situation, worked hard to ensure safety and found a line that looked like it could be climbed and set up the top rope.
We started climbing around 13:30. On this day, we all climbed three different routes and left around 5pm.
The meal was motsu nabe prepared by Mr. and Mrs. Sato, who were provided support. For those who don’t like offal, they made a chicken dumpling hotpot. .
Finish with noodles. it was delicious.
The next day, I decided to leave early to climb in the best possible ice conditions.
After the meal, some people drink while chatting, while others go to sleep in preparation for tomorrow. Everyone had a great time.
The sleeping rooms are large separate rooms for men and women. Prepare a sleeping bag and go to bed on top of the provided futon.
Day2 February 18th
We ate at 6:00 and departed at 6:30. The meal was warm ramen with rolls and leftover hot pot.
On this day, the advance team also set up ropes at Juhachihaba Falls and began climbing at two locations, including Biyo Falls. Around 8 o’clock.
We continued climbing until around 12 noon, when the ice conditions started to deteriorate, and then finished.
I was able to climb a lot. Thank you to the guide team who took care of our safety.
Return to the hut, have a light lunch, and head down the mountain. We arrived at the trailhead parking lot at 3:00pm and moved by car.
The group dispersed at Nagano Station around 5pm.
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Preparing at the trailhead parking lot
Cross the suspension bridge one person at a time. Be careful not to let the bridge fall…
View of Fudo Falls from below
Pray at Yonago Takiyama Fudoson Okunoin Temple.It seems to have been used since the Edo period.
Viewing Fudo Falls from the side
Light lunch and preparations at Nekodake Sanso
From the observation deck of the sulfur mine ruins, you will be overwhelmed by the spectacular view of the Yonago Fudo Ice Falls.
In the distance are the five Hokushin mountains (Mt. Myoko, Mt. Madarao, Mt. Kurohime, Mt. Togakushi, and Mt. Iizuna).
Arrived at Bizarre Falls
Practicing hitting and kicking
Watch the guide’s route work
I climbed a lot
Drying wet gear at the mountain hut
Meal time: Motsu nabe was delicious!
An early start on the second day, and a breathtaking view of the mystical scenery, which is different from the previous day.
We also climbed Juhachihaba Falls for several hours until the ice broke.
Bizarre Falls has 4 routes
When the camera is pointed at them, they do the same pose and act playfully.
Even behind my back, I was joking around.
By noon, conditions had worsened and we had to withdraw.
Group photo at the trailhead parking lot
Thank you for your hard work! Thank you everyone!
