笹川淳子 | BETA Climbing Gym - Bouldering - Shinjuku, Tokyo

【Dry Tooling】 #46 Introductory Held on 4/12 (Wednesday)

2023年04月05日

April’s introduction to dry touring will be held on April 12th (Wednesday), welcoming “Ginreikai Mepanna”!

Thanks to the “Spring Dry Touring Festival” held on March 26th, it was a great success.
The “beginner class” that Ms. Mepanna was in charge of was also a great success. I narrowed down the content at the event, but here you can receive a lecture in the full version.
For those of you who participated, why not take the course again?

Dry tooling is climbing using ice axes and crampons to climb rock walls and artificial walls.

There are many climbers who enjoy dry tooling as a competition and incorporate it as training for ice climbing and alpine climbing.
This course is for those who want to start dry tooling, those who have experienced dry tooling several times but want to learn from the basics properly.

I use an ax to climb, but don’t worry if you don’t have your own ax, I will rent it for you.

Even if you are new to Beta drywall, please take this course.
If you want to use Beta drywall, please take this course first
For details and to apply, please visit the official website

The number of times you can participate in the introductory class will be up to 3 times. After graduating from the introductory class, you can practice on your own, or if you want to practice with everyone, please use the “Dry Tooling Practice Meeting”.。

Held on Wednesday, April 12！

Overview

【Place】 Beta [3F]

【Time】 19:30-22:30

【Lecturer】 Ms.Junko
※Profile description at the bottom of the page

【Target】 dry tooling inexperienced & beginners
※There is no limit on the number of times you can participate, but please note that if there are more applications than the capacity, we may ask those who have participated many times to refrain from doing so.
※Participation must be 18 years or older.

【Capacity】 8 people (Priority will be given to those who participate less often.first-come-first-served basis if the number of participants is the same)

【Course fee】 4400 yen (tax included)
※Please pay at the reception on the day.

【Belongings】
・Clothes suitable for ice climbing (long sleeves and long pants are recommended *Short sleeves are fine in hot weather such as summer, but please be careful)
・Ice ax (*1)
・Helmet
・Gloves (*2)
・Climbing shoes
※1 Please remove the hammer and adz. See “Preparing the Ax” for more information. please do.
※2　Gloves are essential for injury prevention and finger skin protection. We recommend that you get the perfect size. Leather golf gloves are easy to use, but you can also use thin gloves for work at home centers. It is difficult to climb with loose belay gloves or non-slip gloves.

Items that can be rented —————-
・Ice ax (free/please bring a taping with a width of 25mm or more)
・Helmet
・Climbing shoes (paid 300 yen/please bring socks/rent on 1F and bring to 3F)

【Course content】
・Differences between dry tooling and ice climbing (tools/moves)
・How to use the ax (how to grip, switch hands, hold)
・Dry tooling practice Traverse task using ice ax, basics of figure 4 and figure 9

About participation

If you would like to participate, please apply at Beta climbing gym or email.
▼In the case of e-mail: Please send an e-mail with the following address, subject, and text.
◆E-mail destination：info＠beta-climbing.com
※Please replace the @ (at mark) with half-width characters.
◆email subject：4/12 Hope to participate in dry touring introductory
◆Email text: Please write the following 1. to 5.
1. Your name
2. Gender
3. Date of birth
4. Phone number (Please write the number where you can be contacted on the day)
5. Whether or not to rent (If yes, please write the rental product name)
6. Beta member or non-member (please write which one)

※※※※※※※
For those who have applied, we will send you an e-mail from Beta Climbing Gym at a later date. If you do not receive a reply within 1-2 days after sending the participation application email, please call beta.
※※※※※※※

【Deadline】Applications will be closed once the capacity is reached.

Beta Climbing Gym Seminar/Introduction to Dry Touring/Junko Sasagawa

【Instructor Profile】 Junko Sasakawa
Joined the Kanagawa Prefecture Workers’ Mountaineering Federation ・Ginreikai Deputy Representative
In 2018, an all-female alpine climbing club, Ginreikai. Besides alpine climbing, she also participates in ice climbing and dry touring competitions. She is energetically devoting herself to both mountain and competition.

Major achievements
【Competition】
2018 Montura Nanners Cup Beginner Division Winner
2019 Montura Dry Touring Championship Women’s 2nd Place
2020 UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup China match, semi-final advance Women’s lead 18th
2020 UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup Korea Match Women’s Lead 28th
2020 UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup Annual Overall Ranking: Women’s Lead 30th
2021 BETA Cup Mixed Male and Female 6th Place
2023 UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup Annual Overall Ranking: Women’s Lead 21th

【Outer Rock】

Spring 2019 Kamakurayama Hayate D10 RP
Autumn 2020 Futakuchi Valley Kagura D9+ RP

Winter 2021 MIX route (unnamed) M8 RP

*Notice to everyone*
The [3F] climbing area cannot be used by the general public during the course. We apologize for the inconvenience, but thank you for your understanding.

Introduction to dry tooling Past events

Spring Dry Tooling Festival held 3/26 (Sun)

2023年03月17日

Outline

This is an event to let everyone know about dry tooling and enjoy it.
Haruko Takeuchi, known as Haruko of the World, and Junko Sasagawa, known as Ginreikai Mepanna, who played an active role in the Ice Climbing World Cup in the 2023 season, worked hard to make everyone enjoy themselves!

Whether you are new to Dora-Two or already enjoying Dora-Two, please enjoy!
No reservation required, free admission! “We would appreciate it if you could visit us first!”

Date March 26 (Sun) 9:00-18:00
Location: Beta Climbing Gym
Participation Fee　Admission is free (participation fee will be charged for each program you participate in)

Eve March 25th (Sat) 20:00-

Content

For beginners

Dry tooling experience
Figure 4 Photo Session

Beginners

Beginner course
Workshop (pick sharpening / grip tape winding)

For experienced users

Step-up course 1.2
Undermove class
Stamp Rally! “Dora Two Task Challenge!” Main event! !

For all visitors

Talk show by Masayuki Nara, a charismatic figure in the ice climbing world

Beginner program
■Dry Touring Experience
If you want to experience dry touring, go to this corner right after entering from the entrance of BETA. With full equipment rental and lectures, even first-timers can easily experience the dry world.
Our staff Haruko is looking forward to your participation.
You can experience both boulder style and top rope style.
Recommended for ice climbers! “Best for off-season training!”

Participation fee: 1100 yen each
Hours: 1F 9:00-17:00 2F 9:00-12:00/15:00-17:00

■ Figure 4 photo session
Click here for those who want to challenge figure 4, the star move of dry touring! With the support of the staff, you can take cool pictures. As with the experience, it will be held on the 1st floor.
*Please note that you may have to wait for the dry touring experience during the photo session.

Participation fee 550 yen
Hours: 1F 9:00-13:00/15:00-16:00

A program for beginners
■Beginner course
A course for beginners by Junko Sasakawa
This time, the main event is the “stamp rally”, and you can try the challenges on the 2nd and 3rd floors. Even in front of you, you might get tired because you don’t know the tricks of Dora Two and how to handle the gear! ? ?

In order to enjoy the stamp rally tasks even more, why not try the “Basics of Dora Two” first!?

Of course, those who do not participate in the stamp rally but would like to learn the basics of Dora Two are also welcome.

Participation fee 1100 yen
Hours: 10:00-11:00
What to bring: Ice ax, helmet, gloves, climbing shoes, harness *Rental available

■Workshop
Mr. Masato Nakajima, who was active in the 2023 season Ice Climbing World Cup, is in charge
“pick sharpening”
Don’t be afraid of bad holds and metals with a well-sharpened pick! Based on my extensive experience in competitions and rocky areas, I will tell you about the shape of a good pick and how to sharpen it.
“Grip tape winding”
Don’t underestimate it as just grip tape, just by changing the material and winding method, the ease of holding will be different, in other words, the endurance will increase! You may be able to climb that challenge that always falls down!?

Both are held on the 3.5th floor, and you can participate with one coin (500 yen), so don’t miss it.
In addition, on the day of the festival, you can drink coffee made with beans roasted by Mr. Nakajima himself for free (possibly with handmade sweets)!

Participation fee: 550 yen each
Holding time Pick shaving: 10:00-11:00 14:00-15:00
Grip tape winding 11:00-12:00

Experienced program
■ Step-up course 1.2
Junko Sasagawa’s lecture will be a step up.
Do you have a lot of troubles like Dora-Two, but your arms suddenly pump up, you can’t stand strong slopes, you get tired easily, you just can’t reach that hold, and so on?
I will give you one-point advice according to your level so that you can climb a little easier, reach more, and climb in a good position.

If you are worried about your own climb, come on! If you do the stamp rally task after taking this, you’ll discover something new Duck… Duck

Participation fee: 1100 yen each
Hours: 11:00-12:00 16:00-17:00
What to bring: ice ax, helmet, gloves, climbing shoes, harness *Rental available

■Undermove course
A course specializing in under moves by Haruko Takeuchi.
under. That is the No. 1 weak move for girls.
under. When it doesn’t reach, the solution tends to be “physical”. Even if you say, “If you raise your leg, you can reach it,” it tends to be difficult to get out if you raise it.
In order to solve your worries, we will tell you the “under improvement method” according to each person’s technique and physical strength.
If you take this course, you may be able to fly a little longer than yesterday!?

Participation fee 1100 yen
Hours: 13:00-14:00
What to bring: Ice ax, helmet, gloves, climbing shoes *Rental available

■Stamp Rally! “Dora Two Task Challenge!” “Main event!” !
An event to challenge the special challenges of dry touring set in the 2nd floor (bouldering) and 3rd floor (top rope) areas of Beta Climbing Gym. Stamp rally participants will win prizes by lottery. Stamp rally participants can also participate in the talk show by Masayuki Nara for free.

Participation fee 4400 yen
Hours: 9:00-18:00
What to bring: ice ax, helmet, gloves, climbing shoes, harness *Rental available

Program for all visitors
■ Charismatic Ice Climbing World Masayuki Nara Talk Show
A charismatic ice climber from Hokkaido has arrived at BETA!
Mr. Masayuki Nara, who continues to take on new challenges while dealing with an intractable disease, dilated cardiomyopathy, asks, “Why do you climb? What are you aiming for through the many adventures you have gone on?” He will talk about the route he has developed so far and what he is currently challenging.

profile
Born in 1972. I live in Hokkaido and my main occupation is a firefighter. In addition to ice and mixed climbing, he climbs 5.14a in free, enjoys river kayaking, skiing, and swimming. In 2014, he participated in the ice climbing demonstration at the Sochi Olympics as a representative of Japan, and has been active in the ice climbing World Cup for many years. In recent years, he has been actively developing climbing areas in Hokkaido, and in February 2019, he won the Grand Prize of Development by the Japan Development Climber Association together with Mitsugu Yoshida in the new field of deep water solo + jumping. In 2022, he developed dilated cardiomyopathy (a designated intractable disease in which the heart muscle thins, expands, and loses contractile force), and although his heart function drops to 54% of normal, he will make a comeback this winter with an indomitable spirit. Regardless of genre, many people are fascinated by the way he always takes on new challenges by mobilizing his own abilities.

Participation fee 1100 yen
Hours: 17:00-18:00

Organizer Introduction

Junko Sasakawa, aka “Ginreikai Mepanna”
Participated in the Ice Climbing World Cup from 2020. Despite failing to advance to the semi-finals of the World Cup against South Korea this season, they ranked 17th.

An all-rounder who can handle sports, alpine, trad, and ice. He likes and is good at thinking about “how can this person grow further?”

Such Junko is greedy for her own growth and does not mind steady practice, so she continues to steadily improve her personal best even in overseas competitions where strong members gather. I can speak English, French, and Korean, and I’m used to traveling, so it’s very reassuring when I’m on an expedition.

On the day of the Dora two festival, we will welcome you at the stamp rally corner on the 2nd floor, so if you have any questions, please ask.

⚛ Steady growth every year
Good at ice/rock parts and labor-saving moves
⚛
⚛ When I see someone in need, I can’t leave them alone
⚛
⚛Recent favorite is JUNON from BE:FIRST

Photo by @thatcrazydutchguy

Haruko Takeuchi, “SEKAI NO Haruko”
Participated in the Ice Climbing World Cup from 2019. This season, he qualified for all three World Cups and three European Championships, and made it to the finals in five of the six races.

Haruko is such a Tsuyotsuyo, but he’s usually very quiet, and that gap can be said to be a charm. I’m a geek, so if I ask him to explain my moves, he’ll do it endlessly (while grinning).

On the day of the Dora two festival, I think that I will be waiting for the people who come to experience Dora two mainly on the first floor while grinning. Nice to meet you on the day.

⚛ Japanese women’s strongest
⚛ Top level among the girls in the world
⚛
⚛
⚛ The move that puts out the distance is also perfect
⚛

Photo by @thatcrazydutchguy

Sponsor company introduction

Beta Climbing Gym｜Spring Dora Touring Festival

(in no particular order)

Lost Arrow Co., Ltd.
Needless to say, a company that imports essential gear for climbing and mountaineering such as Scarpa, Black Diamond, and Metrius.
The company is run by climbers of climbers and the prices are reasonable. Isn’t there a lot of people who are indebted to you?
As for the beta, all the rental shoes were scarpa force. We have known each other ever since.

Columbia Sportswear Japan Co., Ltd.
A company that deals with famous brands including Colombia. There are many people who prepare a set of Colombian clothing when climbing Mt. Fuji.
Mountain hardware is familiar in the climbing area.
It was impressive that a super alpinist who was personally called Swiss Machine was sponsored.
Beta has sponsored dry touring events several times.

Caravan Inc.
At the same time as being a long-established domestic mountain climbing shoe manufacturer, we are also importing mountain climbing brand products. Climbers are familiar with Unparallel, No Grade, Rock Master, Kamp, and Totem.
We are selling Rock Master’s Rock Socks even in Beta.
Personally, I was shocked by Kamp’s nanotech crampons and ice ax, their lightness and strength.

Dear UP ATHLETE
I think there are a lot of people who are indebted to Jim Climber.
yes. This is a manufacturer of essential supplements for climbers. BCAA and EAA are on sale even in beta. Supplement before, during and after climbing!

TAT Inc.
Professional wholesale company for nail products. ? It may be a lot of people who think.
In Beta, we are indebted to Athlete Nail products. The most popular “nail reinforcement coat“, “nail oil” “Nail Essence” All are TAT products.

Dear RONILO
Jingumae hair and makeup, eyelash, and nail salon. me too? It may be a lot of people who think. .
This is the salon of Mai Masuhara, an athlete nail nail trainer who is indebted to the nail finger skin consultation meeting.
all-in-one moisturizing gel “AND”, which is placed as a sample in beta, is being sold. I will.

【Dry Tooling】 #45 Introductory Held on 3/8 (Wednesday)

2023年02月21日

Introductory to dry tooling in March will be held on 3/8 (Wednesday), welcoming “Ginreikai Mepanna”!
Ginreikai… Sounds like a suspicious group, doesn’t it? What is it, please ask Mepanna-san !

Also, on March 8th (Sunday), we will hold the [Spring Dry Tooling Festival] hosted by Ginreikai Mepanna and Haruko Takeuchi, also known as SEKAI NO Haruko- . looking forward to!
Please visit us not only for those who do dry tooling and ice climbing, but also for those who do not. Admission is free.

Dry tooling is climbing using ice axes and crampons to climb rock walls and artificial walls.

Held on Wednesday, march 8！

Overview

【Place】 Beta [3F]

【Time】 19:30-22:30

【Lecturer】 Ms.Junko
※Profile description at the bottom of the page

【Capacity】 8 people (Priority will be given to those who participate less often.first-come-first-served basis if the number of participants is the same)

【Course fee】 3000 yen (tax included)
※Please pay at the reception on the day.

About participation

If you would like to participate, please apply at Beta climbing gym or email.
▼In the case of e-mail: Please send an e-mail with the following address, subject, and text.
◆E-mail destination：info＠beta-climbing.com
※Please replace the @ (at mark) with half-width characters.
◆email subject：3/8 Hope to participate in dry touring introductory
◆Email text: Please write the following 1. to 5.
1. Your name
2. Gender
3. Date of birth
4. Phone number (Please write the number where you can be contacted on the day)
5. Whether or not to rent (If yes, please write the rental product name)
6. Beta member or non-member (please write which one)

【Deadline】Applications will be closed once the capacity is reached.

【Outer Rock】

Spring 2019 Kamakurayama Hayate D10 RP
Autumn 2020 Futakuchi Valley Kagura D9+ RP

Winter 2021 MIX route (unnamed) M8 RP

*Notice to everyone*
The [3F] climbing area cannot be used by the general public during the course. We apologize for the inconvenience, but thank you for your understanding.

Introduction to dry tooling Past events

2/12 (Sunday) Ice Climbing Step Up Course held @ Yatsugatake Kawaraoku

2023年02月16日

Held on Sunday, February 12, 2023!

An ice climbing step-up course was held at Kawaraoku, Yatsugatake.
Mr. Kentaro Hirokawa was invited as a lecturer, and GINREIKAI Mepanna of Ice Climbing World Copper was invited as a support, making it a fulfilling course.

Kawaraoku is a slope located about 20 minutes on foot from Yatsugatake Sanso. You can fully enjoy it even on a day trip.
Practice ups and leads on a gentle slope, then climb vertically.
In the meantime, Mr. Hirokawa gave a lecture on how to drive an ice screw and how to make an abalakoff.
There are plenty of experiences such as the experience of Ice Fifi, which GINREIKAI Mepanna used at the World Cup.

The night before, the members who stayed at the Yatsugatake Sanso shavings the raw ham of the service.
The samgyetang for dinner was also delicious.

Ice climbing is a seasonal thing, so what I learned last season may be forgotten or not possible this season. .
But I would be happy if I could relearn and be able to do it. . Ice cream is an activity that you can enjoy forever.

Advertising at the end. Mr. Kentaro Hirokawa, who was invited as a lecturer, taught “Ice Climbing” and “Challenge! Alpine Climbing” He has authored many books such as Alpine Climbing.
As an introduction to alpine climbing, “Challenge…” has inspired many climbers to open new paths.
However, it was published 20 years ago, and everyone was waiting for the revised edition to be published. It’s probably been about five years since rumors of a revised edition were published.
Finally, it will be published this spring! ! ! !
On sale April 3, 2023! “You can make a reservation on Amazon!”
『Alpine climbing route guide Northern Alps』

2/11 (Sat) Introductory ice climbing was held @ Fujimi Panorama Resort Summit Fall

2023年02月14日

2/11 (Sat) Introductory ice climbing was held ！

As you know, the day before, there was heavy snow in the Kanto region and the Chuo Expressway was closed to traffic, so most people gave up on participating.
Only one person was able to participate!

As a result, participant was supported by two ice climbing world coppers, making it a fulfilling workshop.

We climbed while checking my form and balance, and had a lot of fun with ice fifi experience, pseudo lead, and more.

Icefall is close to the Tokyo metropolitan area and is easy to approach. Since it is a ski resort, you don’t need full winter mountain climbing equipment, making it the perfect environment for practicing climbing.
We will hold it again next year, so let’s all climb up!
It will be held at a little earlier timing.

Also, the two World Coppers who supported us this time, Junko Sasakawa, aka “Ginreikai Mepanna”, and Haruko Takeuchi, aka “Haruko of the World”.
thank you very much!
Beta will continue to support “Ginreikai Mepanna” and “SEKAI NO Haruko-“.
Thank you all for your support!

A shirt from Jim M2 run by Mr. Kwon Young Hye from South Korea, the master of SEKAI NO Haruko-