Ice climbing Step UP training session by Kentaro Hirokawa was held at Yatsugatake 2024/3/16-17 | BETA Climbing Gym - Bouldering

2024/3/16-17 Ice climbing Step UP course was held at Yatsugatake/Kawara Oku/Soy Sauce Barrel.
We welcomed Mr. Kentaro Hirokawa, who knows everything about ice climbing, as our instructor. He is commonly known as Hiroken. He is currently writing a collection of alpine and ice climbing routes. It looks like it will be completed soon. looking forward to!
There were 2 participants. Although both of them have been climbing, it was almost their first time on ice. Beta Ozawa accompanied us for support.

Due to the warm winter, the ice in the Yatsugatake area began to melt in late February, and there was a concern that the event would not be held, but the cold returned in March and the ice had refrozen.
Initially, we had planned to hold the event at Minamisawa Otaki and Kotaki, but since it was likely to be the last ice cream event of the season, we expected it to be very crowded, so we decided to move it to the back of the river and at the soy sauce barrels.
The back of the riverbed is short and the route to the soy sauce barrel is limited, so I was worried whether I would be satisfied, but thanks to Mr. Hiroken, who knows everything about playing with ice, he provided a course on how to ensure safety in various situations. It was fulfilling.

Day1 February 16th
All participants left Tokyo by car at 4 o’clock. Arrived at Yatsugatake Sanso at 7 o’clock. The parking lot was about 90% full. I met up with Hiroken at 8 o’clock.
After receiving an explanation about the content and equipment of the course, we started at 9am.

It takes about 20 minutes to walk to the back of the river from Yatsugatake Sanso.
First, we set up two top ropes on the gently sloping ice and warmed up while learning the basics of how to climb.
Next, move to the next small icicle with a stacut. Descend by rappelling from the top of the icicle. I had fun while learning about safety on alpine routes.
After lunch, we learned how to hit an ice screw on a gentle slope and practiced it on the top rope.
Move to vertical ice and climb up. At this point it was about 3pm. As expected, it seems difficult compared to the gentle slope. It seems that each child is facing issues such as how to maintain balance and how to use crampons.
We climbed until after 5pm and the day ended.

Return to Yatsugatake Sanso where you are staying, take a bath, and start dinner. First, let’s toast with beer. Beer after playing to your heart’s content is special! Samgyetang served in a custom-made stone pot was delicious.

Day2 February 18th
We ate at 6 o’clock, relaxed a bit, and left at 8:00. For meals, you can choose between Western and Japanese food, and everyone eats Japanese food, The Japanese Meal, which comes with mackerel simmered in miso and natto. Calm down.
We arrived at the parking space around 9am, got ready and headed out. Head along the stream to the soy sauce barrel. There are a couple of high winding spots along the way, but they all pass along the stream.
There is ice on the top of the stream, but it’s very fragile, so we had to go upstream looking for safe footing. A rope is provided to ensure safety when passing through small waterfalls.
It took us 2 hours to approach, but it was a great learning experience for finding routes and ensuring safety when going up the Fuyusawa River.

Around 11:30, we tied up the top rope and started climbing. On this day, my goal was to create a pseudo-lead while driving ice screws.
I climbed several routes on the left, which are easier to climb, and climbed using a pseudo lead. Both of them made it safely.
Next, we set up a rope on the route on the right and reviewed all of the lessons we learned this time. Both of them were able to improve their skills, such as hitting the ax, balancing, kicking the crampons, and rhythm.
We climbed until around 4pm and finished. I arrived at the parking space after 5pm. I returned to Tokyo around 10pm.

Thank you to the two participants and our instructor Hiroken! !